Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
The road from Le Puy to Paris quits the valley of the Borne, and
ascends the slopes of Mont Denise. As it mounts it commands grand
views. To the east is stretched the long chain culminating in Mézenc,
and Mégal with its group of _sucs_. M. Paulett Scrope's panorama
should be taken so as to identify the peaks.
After turning the flank of Mont Denise, the most modern of the
volcanoes, a basin opens before one, out of which starts up the lava
mass, like a huge pork-pie, that supports the scanty remains of the
Castle of Polignac, the eagle nest of this mighty family. At the foot
of the crag lies the village like a red girdle encircling it. Only the
donjon of the fortress remains perfect, repaired in 1893-7 by Heracleus
Armand XXV., Duke of Polignac. The entire platform was at one time
covered with buildings; now only foundations can be traced. But the
fallen masses have revealed the fact that this was a stronghold before
the Polignacs were thought of. It was certainly a prehistoric fortress,
then a Gaulish oppidum, next a Roman station. The name has been
supposed to derive from Apollo, who is thought to have had a temple
here, whence oracles were delivered. Within the precincts is a vault in
which is the mouth of a well 250 feet deep reaching to a spring. It is
conjectured that a colossal mask of stone, with open mouth, represents
the bearded head of a local Apollo, and that priests concealed in the
subterranean chamber uttered oracles which were made to issue from the
mouth. What is more certain is that an inscription of the time of the
Emperor Claudius has been found here, and that Roman tablets are built
into the walls of the little Romanesque church below the rock.
The Paris road leads onwards to S. Paulien, the ancient Ruessio capital
of the tribe of the Velavi. It has little to interest the visitor. A
stone now surmounted by a cross is called _Lou Peyrou dou tresvirs_,
the stone of the Triumviri, on which are carved three heads; the
church, reconstructed in the ninth century, stands on the ruins of an
edifice of the fourth. Some Roman fragments are incrusted in the walls.
Above the town, built into modern constructions, are many fragments of
the old city. The chapel of N. Dame du Haut-Solier has been regarded
as occupying the site of a temple dedicated to the sun, and is built
up of Gallo-Roman materials. Hereabouts the spade is continually
turning up relics, among others were found a head of Jupiter Serapis,
and inscriptions, of which one is commemorative of Etruscilla, wife of
the Emperor Decius. The chapel of the Sisters of S. Joseph possesses a
Romanesque doorway with bold zigzag ornament, removed from the ruined
commandery of Montredon.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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