Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
At Ste. Eulalie, on the Sunday after the 12th July, is held the
Foire aux Violettes. To that stream the cottagers from Les Estables
and all the hamlets about Mézenc, laden with baskets heaped up with
violets, and not violets only, but also the thousand aromatic herbs
that luxuriate in this desolate region. The violets of Mézenc are so
numerous and so large that in spring the mountain is arrayed in royal
purple. The Mézenc violet is, moreover, more intense in colour than
that of the Alps, and it retains its colour longer when dried. To this
fair come the merchants of Lyons, Marseilles, and Nîmes. Every kind
of simple used by druggists, every herb used for the production of
essences, is there to be procured. But the violet is the staple of the
trade. The air is scented with it, but the sweetness cannot neutralise
the bad savour of the village—that defies suppression.
The flowers are gathered at the end of May by women and children. Then
they are dried in the hayloft, never allowed so to do in the sun. And
when we buy the crystallised violet at Gunters, or try the withered
flowers as a cure for cancer, ten to one but we are employing the
produce of Mézenc, and putting a few _petits sous_ into the pockets of
those leading a hard life in this southern Siberia.
The flora of Mézenc is subalpine, with many gaps. One rare plant alone
is found on it, the _Senecio leucophyllus_, that flowers in August and
September, and is found also on the Pyrenees at heights between 3,000
and 6,000 feet. It resembles the _Senecio maritimus_ that grows on
the Mediterranean littoral, which is cultivated in our gardens as an
ornamental plant on account of its imbricated and silvery foliage.
Oaks here are low-growing and yield acorns once in six years, and beech
once in four, whereas the service tree gives its fruit every year. This
arrest of oak and beech is due to spring frosts when the trees are in
flower, and an early winter forbids the glands and mast to ripen even
when formed.
It is quite easy to "do" Mézenc from Le Puy in a day. That admirable
institution, the Syndicat d'Initiative, provides a conveyance, starting
from the capital every Sunday morning in summer at 5 a.m., and from
Estables the mountain may be climbed in an hour and a half. The
conveyance is back at Le Puy at 10 p.m., and the cost of a seat is but
five francs. But if the visitor desires to extend his expedition, he
should seek the Gerbier de Jonc and the lake of Issarley and return by
Le Monastier. But this will occupy two days.
The Gerbier de Jonc is a conical clinkstone mountain, not so high
as the Mézenc, but commanding quite as fine a prospect. It has been
compared not inaptly to a pine cone, bristling with foils of phonolith
that make the ascent by no means easy. Indeed, from the source of the
Loire at its foot it is but a climb of 530 feet, but the dislocation
of the rock and the steepness make the climb somewhat laborious.
[Illustration: GERBIER DE JONC]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account