Legends -- Pyrenees; Pyrenees -- Description and travel; Pyrenees -- History
Few visitors to Biarritz fail to take a run over the frontier into
Spain. The Bidassoa for about twelve miles forms the line of
demarcation between France and Spain. Near the bridge of Behobia are
the remains--they are nothing more--of the Ile des Faisans, on which
conferences were held between Cardinal Mazarin, plenipotentiary for
France, and Don Luis da Haro, acting for Spain, which led to the
conclusion of the famous Treaty of the Pyrenees, in 1659, cemented
by the marriage of Louis XIV with the daughter of Philip IV. At the
meeting on the Ile des Faisans each party advanced from its own
territory by a temporary bridge to this patch of neutral ground in
mid-stream. The death of Velasquez, the painter, was due to exposure
whilst superintending the decoration of the tent for the minister of
Spain--a duty more befitting an upholsterer than a great artist. By
the treaty France received la Cerdagne and Roussillon, but surrendered
Lorraine to Duke Charles IV, on condition that he should dismantle all
its fortresses. As he delayed doing this Louis retained his hold on the
duchy.
Fontarabie (Fuenterrabia) does not signify the Fountain of Arabia,
and retains in its name no reminiscence of Moorish domination; the
derivation is from the Latin _fons rapidus_. It is a picturesque, dirty
town, malodorous; bearing as its arms in quarterings an angel holding a
key, to signify that the town holds the key of Spain--a squalid beggar
would be more appropriate than an angel; a whale and two syrens, the
whale to indicate the fishing of the leviathan, now long departed;
and lastly a castle between two stars. These arms were accorded to
Fuenterrabia by Philip IV in 1638, when the admiral of Castile repulsed
the Prince of Condé, who was besieging it. The church, Gothic in
style, has been modernized externally; within it is overloaded with
barbaric ornament. The castle, known as the palace of Charles V, dates
originally from the tenth century, but has undergone much rebuilding
and adaptation. The courtyard is picturesque, and the terrace commands
a beautiful view.
Fuenterrabia brings no pleasing remembrances to an Englishman. The
citizens begrudged a lodging to our sick and wounded during the
passage of the Pyrenees by the allied troops under Wellington when in
pursuit of Soult in the depth of winter. The town authorities even
wanted to take away the boards on which were stretched the disabled
soldiers. “These,” wrote the Duke, “are the people to whom we have
given medicines, etc., whose wounded and sick we have taken into our
hospitals, and to whom we have rendered every service in our power,
after having recovered their country from the enemy.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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