The resident in winter can hardly understand the structure of the
towns, with streets at widest nine feet, and the houses running up
to five and six storeys; but this is due to necessity. The object is
double: by making the streets so narrow, the sun is excluded, and the
sun in Provence is not sought as with us in England; and secondly,
these narrow thoroughfares induce a draught down them. In almost
every town the contrast between the new and the old is most marked,
for the occupants of the new town reside there for the winter only,
and therefore court the sun; whereas the inhabitants of the old town
dwell in it all the year round, and consequently endeavour to obtain
all protection possible from the sun. But this shyness of basking in
the sun was not the sole reason why the streets were made so narrow.
The old towns and even villages were crowded within walls; a girdle of
bulwark surrounded them, they had no space for expansion except upwards.
What Mr. Hammerton says of French towns applies especially to those of
Provence:—
“France has an immense advantage over England in the better harmony
between her cities and towns, and the country where they are placed.
In England it rarely happens that a town adds to the beauty of a
landscape; in France it often does so. In England there are many towns
that are quite absolutely and hideously destructive of landscape
beauty; in France there are very few. The consequence is that in
France a lover of landscape does not feel that dislike to human
interference which he so easily acquires in England, and which in some
of our best writers, who feel most intensely and acutely, has become
positive hatred and exasperation.”
It was fear of the Moors and the pirates of the Mediterranean which
drove the inhabitants of the sea-coast to build their towns on the
rocks, high uplifted, walled about and dominated by towers.
I will now give a hasty sketch of the early history of Provence—so far
as goes to explain the nature of its population.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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