The Jura limestone is the great _pièce de resistance_ in Provence:
it is sweeter in colour than the chalk, ranging from cream white to
buff and salmon; it has not the dead pallor of the chalk. Any one who
has gone down the Cañon of the Tarn knows what exquisite gradations
and harmonies of tone are to be found in Jura limestone. Here this
formation stands up as a wall to the North, a mighty screen, sheltering
the Riviera from the boreal winds. It rises precipitously to a plateau
that is bald and desolate, but which is rent by ravines of great
majesty and beauty, through which rush the waters from the snowy Alps.
The chalk and the limestone are fissured, and allow the water flowing
over their surface to filter down and issue forth in the valleys,
rendering these fertile and green, whereas the plateaux are bare. The
plateaux rise to the height of 3,000 or 4,500 feet.
The tract between the mountain wall of limestone and the sea is made
up of a molass of rolled fragments of the rock in a paste of mud. This
forms hills of considerable height, and this also is sawn through here
and there by rills, or washed out by rivers.
Altogether different in character is the mass of the Montagnes des
Maures, which is an uplifted body of granite and schist.
Altogether different again is the Estérel, a protruded region of red
porphyry.
About these protruded masses may be seen the new red sandstone.
When we have mastered this—and it is simple enough to remember—we
know the character of the geology from the mouths of the Rhone to
Albenga.
“The colouring of Provence,” says Mr. Hammerton, “is pretty in spring,
when the fields are still green and the mulberry trees are in leaf,
and the dark cypress and grey olive are only graver notes in the
brightness, while the desolation of the stony hills is prevented from
becoming oppressive by the freshness of the foreground; but when the
hot sun and the dry wind have scorched every remnant of verdure, when
any grass that remains is merely ungathered hay, and you have nothing
but flying dust and blinding light, then the great truth is borne in
upon you that it is Rain which is the true colour magician, though he
may veil himself in a vesture of grey cloud.”
In winter and early spring it is that the coast is enjoyable. In
winter there is the evergreen of the palms, the olive, the ilex, the
cork tree, the carob, the orange and lemon and myrtle. Indeed, in the
Montagnes des Maures and in the Estérel, it is always spring.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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