A Confession of St. AugustineHowells, William Dean
History
A Confession of St. Augustine
Howells, William Dean
Saint Augustine (Fla.) -- Guidebooks
The old Spanish cemetery, now disused, lies far away on the edge of the
marshes to the northwest, where it was sweet one morning to find it
basking in the sun, under its wilding cedars, in the keeping of the cows
which made it their pasturage. When I wandered a little way among its
forgotten and neglected graves, I found no name Spanisher than Burns on
one of the stones. There might have been Spanisher names; I only say I
did not happen on them then, though later, following the wandering
cowpaths, I did find such a name as, say, Lopez. But at the worst the
old Spanish cemetery is not so all misnamed as the old Huguenot
burial-ground, where no Huguenot was ever buried, and where you cannot
read a solitary name of French accent or denomination. The Old Religion,
as distinguished from the New Religion which the Huguenots professed, is
the faith which now perhaps not unfitly prevails in St. Augustine, but
there is a great variety in the Protestant faiths, let alone that
difference of white and black which is of such marked emphasis that I do
not suppose any one could get to heaven from a church where he was not
properly segregated. The colored churches, divided from the white, are
again divided by such a nice distinction, for example, as Methodist
Episcopal and African Methodist Episcopal. Many of the colored people,
however, are broadly Roman Catholic, but they also have their own
churches apart from the white.
When the king of Spain ceded Florida to the king of England, late in the
eighteenth century, the Spanish inhabitants of St. Augustine largely, if
not mostly, went away to Cuba, but their religion continued in the
primacy which it still enjoys. The cathedral fronting the Plaza from the
north is not the cathedral of former days, but a dignified reproduction
of the cathedral devoured by the flames which in St. Augustine seem to
have a peculiar appetite for the older edifices. One steps into it from
the twentieth century and finds oneself in the serious silence which is
the same in all the temples of that faith, and which one might almost
persuade oneself was a religious emotion and not the esthetic impression
it really is. It makes one wish for the moment that one were of the Old
Religion, and this was the effect with me when I woke in the morning and
heard the nuns’ sweet voices rising in their matins over the gardens of
the girls’ school across the way from us. It was a privilege to dwell
in the sound and sight of that place, and one felt something of an
unmerited consecration from it; when one met two of those kind sisters,
who always came and went in twos, one gladly stepped from the narrow
footway of St. George Street, and gave way to them with a sense of
unmerited blessing from the sight of them. The figure of St. Joseph
looked down, at first glance rather apparitionally, from an upper window
across the flowers, and seemed to bless them in the benediction not
withheld from the shrill hilarity of the girl children and the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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