A Flight in Spring: In the car Lucania from New York to the Pacific coast and back, during April and May, 1898Knowles, J. Harris (John Harris)
History
A Flight in Spring: In the car Lucania from New York to the Pacific coast and back, during April and May, 1898
Knowles, J. Harris (John Harris)
Railroad travel -- United States; United States -- Description and travel
We must also tell of the happy Chinese laundryman whom we interviewed
under the light of the moon, the very picture of placid, contented
comfort, as he smoked a huge pipe with stem two feet long. Poor soul,
all in his loneliness, coming out from his little hole for a breath of
fresh air and a touch of that great nature which is ever so good to us
all if we will but let it. Our Chinaman told us that his pipestem was
especially valuable, that it had the excellent quality of making the
smoke cool, and that such stems, being made of the tea shrub, were very
rare. One of our number next morning wished to purchase the said
pipestem from "John," but he refused all offers, saying he would not
give it for fifty dollars.
XIII
San Francisco.--Bustling Traffic.--Railroad Employees.--The
Flagman.--The Palace Hotel.--The Seal Rocks.--Sutro Residence and
Baths.--The Presidio.--Sentinels.--Golden Gate Park.--The Memorial
Cross.--San Francisco and Edinburgh Compared.--The Cable Cars.--
Chinatown.--The Opium Den.--The Goldsmiths' Shops.--Across the
Bay to Tiburon.--The Bohemian Club.
In San Francisco we had a couple of full days and fragments of two
others, all too short to fully take in the wonders of that romantic
city, so bizarre, so strange, and in its way so attractive.
After coming across the Bay from Oakland, we found ourselves in the
midst of the noise and bustle of the railroad yards, fronting on a
street crowded with teams and wagons from morning until night; and in
the night, the ever-resounding snorts of the iron horse were not found
as soothing as the nightingales of San Remo; but one cannot have
everything. If you travel thousands of miles in the same car, and are
proud to reach home in the same palatial manner, the nuisances of the
depot are of minor importance, after all.
The huge wagons hung low near the ground, groaning under merchandise in
transit, and the splendid horses which drew them were worth looking at.
The ever-wakeful life of railroad men and their unceasing labors must
increase one's respect for that class of people, so strong, so active,
so intelligent, and so self-reliant, which garrison the fortresses and
outposts of trade all over the American continent. Such a life is a
training-ground for possible armies of another kind, which a touch on
the American flag, or on our national honor, could transform in a flash
into a formidable and reliable force in any emergency.
In my musings while in this busy place, my attention was called to a
flagman just opposite where our car was anchored. I explored his shanty
and had a good chat with him. His little place was bright without and
within. Outside were flowers and shrubs; within not a speck of dust was
to be seen. It was as shipshape as the best kind of a New England home,
having a place for everything, and everything in its place.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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