A Flight in Spring: In the car Lucania from New York to the Pacific coast and back, during April and May, 1898Knowles, J. Harris (John Harris)
History
A Flight in Spring: In the car Lucania from New York to the Pacific coast and back, during April and May, 1898
Knowles, J. Harris (John Harris)
Railroad travel -- United States; United States -- Description and travel
In the intervals of his labor, he had time for a quiet rest on an
improvised seat outside his cabin door. That seat attracted me. It was
like stone, but its peculiar shape told me it was a joint from the
vertebrae of a whale. It was just a piece of gigantic bric-a-brac, well
seasoned, which one might covet. I asked him what he would take for it.
"Oh," said he, "I could not sell that; it was here before I came, and
will remain after me." One could not but respect the sentiment which
would regard a tradition rather than pocket a possible dollar. I had
too much admiration for such fine feelings to offer to tempt the man
again with a new proposal.
A little later on in our stay, we all adjourned to the Palace Hotel, an
enormous hostelry which was once the wonder of the continent, and yet
has, with its huge interior glass court, a certain air about it quite
magnificent.
From there we made excursions to some of the stock sights of the place.
We went out to the Seal Rocks and saw the Pacific breakers dash up on
the huge crags, where the seals, or sea-lions rather, for they are not
true seals, mowed and roared and tumbled over each other in their
awkward progress on the cliffs. We saw them also in their element,
darting gracefully through the waves. We saw Sutro's Baths near by, a
huge structure with splendid accommodation for bathers. We saw also the
grounds and residence of Sutro, the rich man who built those baths at
his own expense, and for the benefit of the people. The grounds of the
residence were filled with statues and ornamental sculptures, too
lavish for good taste; but, let us admit, at least, that the intention
to thus decorate was certainly good. We also saw the Presidio, or army
station, and were severely, but most politely, warned off from certain
points by armed and mounted sentries. It was a little touch of the war
spirit and order, not displeasing. The sentry with whom we parleyed
was a type of the American soldier, self-reliant, unconventional,
intelligent, and polite. When one looks at such men, they see the new
ideas which have discarded forever the millinery of military life.
There are no more restraining straps and buckles; no more pipeclay; no
more propping up, like trussed fowls, of chest and shoulders; but all
is free, natural, and unrestrained.
We drove out over the bare sand hills, which myriads of lupins of
various shades of purple and yellow, were doing their best to clothe
and glorify. We came to Golden Gate Park in our drive, and thoroughly
enjoyed its extent, the glory of its trees and strange shrubs, and,
among other sculptures, the splendid monument to Francis Key, the
author of the "Star Spangled Banner." From the park, we could see the
surrounding mountains, and on their slopes the distant buildings of
various educational institutions, of splendid proportions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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