A Half Century Among the Siamese and the Lāo: An AutobiographyMcGilvary, Daniel
History
A Half Century Among the Siamese and the Lāo: An Autobiography
McGilvary, Daniel
Lao (Tai people); Missions -- Lao (Tai people); Presbyterian Church in the U.S.A. -- Missions
We got the elephants; but, as it was, from preference I walked most of
the way. Once I paid dear for my walk by getting separated from my
elephant in the morning, losing my noonday lunch, and not regaining my
party till, tired and hungry, I reached camp at night. Our guide had
taken a circuitous route to avoid a band of robbers on the main route
which I had followed! This was my first experience of elephant-riding.
We crossed rivers where the banks were steep, and there was no regular
landing. But whether ascending or descending steep slopes, whether
skirting streams and waterfalls, one may trust the elephant’s sagacity
and surefootedness. The view we had from one of the mountain ridges
seemed incomparably fine. The Mê Ping wound its way along the base
beneath us, while beyond, to right and to left, rose range beyond range,
with an occasional peak towering high above the rest. But that was tame
in comparison with many mountain views encountered in subsequent years.
We were eight days in reaching Lakawn,[6] which we marked as one of our
future mission stations. On being asked whether he would welcome a
mission there, the governor replied, “If the King of Siam and the Prince
of Chiengmai approve.” At Lakawn we had no delay, stopping there only
from Friday till Monday morning. Thence to Lampūn we found sālās, or
rest-houses, at regular intervals. The watershed between these towns was
the highest we had crossed. The road follows the valley of a stream to
near the summit, and then follows another stream down on the other side.
The gorge was in places so narrow that the elephant-saddle scraped the
mountain wall on one side, while on the other a misstep would have
precipitated us far down to the brook-bed below.
Footnote 6:
A corruption of Nakawn (for Sanskrit _nagara_, capital city), which is
the first part of the official name of the place, Nakawn Lampāng. The
Post Office calls it Lampāng, to distinguish it from another Nakawn
(likewise Lakawn in common speech), in the Malay Peninsula—the place
known to Europeans as Ligor. The general currency of this short name,
and its regular use in all the missionary literature, seem to justify
its retention in this narrative.—ED.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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