A Half Century Among the Siamese and the Lāo: An AutobiographyMcGilvary, Daniel
History
A Half Century Among the Siamese and the Lāo: An Autobiography
McGilvary, Daniel
Lao (Tai people); Missions -- Lao (Tai people); Presbyterian Church in the U.S.A. -- Missions
At Lampūn my companion was not well, so that I alone called on the
authorities. The governor had called the princes together to learn our
errand. They seemed bewildered when told that we had no government
business, nor were we traders—were only teachers of religion. When the
proper officer was directed to send us on quickly, he began to make
excuses that it would take two or three days. Turning sharply upon him,
the governor asked, “Prayā Sanām, how many elephants have you?” “Four,”
was the response. “See that they get off to-morrow,” was the short
reply. He meekly withdrew. There was evidently no trifling with that
governor. One day more brought us to Chiengmai—to the end of what seemed
then a very long journey. As we neared the city, Mr. Wilson’s elephant
took fright at the creaking noise of a water-wheel, and ran away,
crashing through bamboo fences and trampling down gardens. Fortunately
no one was hurt.
We reached the city on January 7th, 1864, on the forty-ninth day of our
journey. The nephew of the Prince had been left in charge during the
Prince’s absence. He evidently was in doubt how to receive us. He could
not ignore our passport and letter from Bangkok. On the other hand, why
did we not have a letter from the Prince? Our story of missing him
through choosing the canal instead of the main river might or might not
be true. If the deputy were too hospitable, his Prince might blame him.
So he cut the knot, and went off to his fields. We saw no more of him
till he came in to see us safely off.
The elder daughter of the Prince had accompanied her father to Bangkok,
but the younger daughter was at home. She was a person of great
influence, and was by nature hospitable. Things could not have been
better planned for our purpose. The princess remembered me and my wife
from her call on us after our wedding. She now called on us in person
with her retinue; after that everybody else was free to call. It is not
unlikely that that previous acquaintance redeemed our trip from being a
failure. Our sālā was usually crowded with visitors. We had an ideal
opportunity of seeing the heart of the people. They lacked a certain
external refinement seen among the Siamese; but they seemed sincere and
more religious. Buddhism had not become so much a matter of form. Many
of the older people then spent a day and a night, or even two days, each
month fasting in the monasteries. There was hope that if such people saw
a better way, they would accept it. One officer, who lived just behind
our sālā, a great merit-maker, was a constant visitor. Years afterward
we had the pleasure of welcoming him to the communion of the church.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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