Costume -- Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History -- Pictorial works
At the commencement of the reign, men’s hats were worn with very
wide brims (about 6½ inches wide), and cocked in various styles
according to the profession of the wearer. A favourite cocked hat was
the Nivernois. It was very small, with large flaps, fastened up to the
shallow crown by hooks and eyes. The corner in front was spout-shaped,
and stiffened out by wire.
Gold-laced hats were generally worn again in 1775, because the wearers
thought that they gave them a military and distinguished appearance,
and it is said that many men wore them to escape the attentions of the
press gang, that were remarkably active about this time. In 1772 a
new fashion was introduced by young gentlemen who had been travelling
in Italy. They formed themselves into the Maccaroni Club, which was
intended as a rival to the Beefsteak Club, and distinguished themselves
by a most extravagant and eccentric costume.
The new-fashioned dandy was known as a Maccaroni (Figs. 2 and 3). His
hair was dressed into an enormous toupée, with large curls at the
sides, while behind it was gathered and tied up into an enormous club
or knot, that rested on the back of the neck. Upon this, a very small
hat was often worn (Fig. 3). A full, white handkerchief was tied in
a large bow round the neck. Both coat and waistcoat were shortened,
and were edged with lace or braid. The garments were decorated with
the wearer’s initials, pictures of windmills, horsemen, hounds, &c.,
showing to what extent a ridiculous fashion can be carried. Two watches
were worn, one in each waistcoat pocket, from which hung large bunches
of seals. Silk stockings, and small shoes with diamond buckles,
completed the costume, which, however, remained in fashion only one
season.
About the middle of the reign of George III., the square-cut coat and
the long-flapped waistcoat of the three preceding reigns underwent an
alteration. The stiffening was taken out of the skirts, the waists were
shortened, and the cut of the present Court suit introduced. Cloth
became the general material for the coat, and velvet, silk, satin, and
embroidery, were reserved for Court dress or waistcoats and breeches
only. The stockings were worn under the breeches, and shoes had large
buckles. The lace cravat was abandoned in 1735, and a black ribbon,
worn around the neck, was tied in a large bow in front. White cambric
stocks, buckled behind, succeeded these, and then followed muslin
cravats.
Round hats began to be worn in the mornings, and shortly after this
time the French Revolution in 1789 completed the downfall of the
three-cornered hat on both sides of the Channel. A flat, folding,
crescent-shaped beaver, still called a cocked hat, distinguished the
beaux at the theatre, and the chapeau-de-bras, a small triangular silk
article, was slipped under the arm of the courtier.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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