Such discussions did not terminate without receiving urgent invitations
to visit Russia, offering, at the same time, to procure for us every
facility for seeing the cities to advantage; and also an order from the
gentleman's father,[2] who was at the head of the postal department,
which would command for us horses and conveyances through every part of
Russia.
Since that time I have frequently contemplated visiting the north of
Europe, but, from various causes, have deferred such undertaking till
the last summer, when, finding my fellow traveller unwilling to leave
home, I induced another individual[3] to accompany me after much
difficulty in reconciling herself to so long an absence from attractions
usually found at home.
We set off on the 17th of June, and sailed the following day from
Grimsby for St. Petersburg in the "Atlantic," a fine screw steamer,
1,600 tons burden, 284 feet long, and engines of 400 horse power, with
thirty passengers.
On setting out the weather was delightful, with a smooth sea, so that we
remained on deck all day, enjoying the promenade, though it was somewhat
restricted by numerous bales of cotton.
The following day proved cloudy and much colder, followed by a stiff
breeze through the night, rocking some of us without getting us to
sleep.
On the 20th we rejoiced to see _terra firma_, and about ten in the
evening landed a passenger at Elsinore.
Here the sea becomes much narrower, bringing into view more than fifty
vessels, no longer delayed by the payment of Sound dues which were
compounded for some years ago with the kingdom of Denmark.
Early the following morning we anchored opposite Copenhagen, and a boat
being sent off for provisions, enabled some of us to go ashore and walk
through some of the principal streets and take a glance at one of their
numerous public gardens.
On resuming our course, we passed a long range of nets kept afloat by
logs of wood every thirty or forty yards; and near Goat Island we
observed a large number of planks floating by for several hours, the
cargo of some unfortunate vessel. Here we saw three gulls, the only
birds we had observed in all our passage, and no fish, not even a
porpoise, which should more readily be excused as they are mostly seen
in stormy weather.
In the course of conversation with one of the passengers we were glad to
learn that our Russian friend was residing in one of the palaces at St.
Petersburg, and also that he would be able to render us most valuable
services.
We arrived at Cronstadt on the 24th, having had on the whole a pleasant
voyage, with agreeable company, but not without some feeling of
commiseration for the poor stokers working so hard in a dusty heated
atmosphere.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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