Cronstadt is the chief station of the Russian navy, and the
fortifications are very extensive, including two circular batteries a
short distance from the shore, having three tiers and a range of guns at
the top, but so ill-constructed, we were told, as to be rendered almost
useless for want of ventilation.
Here our passports were examined, and the passengers along with their
luggage were transferred to a smaller steamer to convey us up the Neva
to St. Petersburg.
Soon after leaving Cronstadt, on the right are seen the gilded towers of
the palace of Peterhof, and a little further we discern a large golden
ball, the dome of St. Isaac, with the glittering taper spire rising from
the Admiralty. Approaching nearer, we see numerous domes and spires,
painted blue and green, with silver and golden stars.
Along the banks of the Neva are quays, constructed in the most
substantial manner out of large blocks of granite.
Before being permitted to land there was a further inspection of our
passports, and our luggage was conveyed to the searching house. Here we
found a commissioner from the Miss Bensons, the proprietresses of a
celebrated boarding-house, to whom we had written a short time before.
Having but a few books, the examination passed off very quickly, and we
were soon conveyed to their delightful establishment, beautifully
situated on the English Quay.
It was well that we had written, as we found the house quite full,
consisting chiefly of English travellers; everything proved so nice and
comfortable that we soon found ourselves more at home than we could have
expected.
So far I have proceeded as from a diary, but in future, though I shall
confine myself almost entirely to such objects as come under our actual
notice, I shall find it necessary in describing many particulars to
quote largely from Murray and some other authorities.
The weather, we were told, had been very wet and cold for a much longer
period than usual, but had suddenly changed to brighter skies and a
delightful atmosphere. The days, of course, are here much longer, but
what surprised us most was the brilliant twilight, eclipsing every star
and enabling us to read the newspaper at midnight.
Our first business was to communicate by telegraph the important news of
our safe arrival; and early the following morning we received the joyful
intelligence of all being well at home.
To some of you this may be considered a circumstance hardly worth
relating, but let such persons go a considerable distance from home
leaving behind them valuable treasures and their views and feelings will
undergo considerable change.
On enquiring about Adlerberg, my quarantine associate, we were sorry to
learn that he had set off that morning with the Emperor for Archangel,
proving himself by that circumstance, as well as from what we heard in
all quarters, to be no unimportant personage, second only, they said, to
the Emperor himself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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