Besides these, there are second-hand markets, dealers in old clothes,
books, and pictures, and others with bundles of ribbons round their
bodies or a pile of hats one upon another making known such dealer to a
considerable distance.
These densely-crowded districts form a striking contrast to other parts
of the city, where scarcely a person is to be seen, and it should be
further mentioned, to their credit, that we only observed one
altercation, and another person in a state of intoxication, being the
first disorderlies we had seen since entering the country.
The Sundays here, as in most Catholic countries, are spent as fete days
or holidays, and having heard much of the singing gypsies, we proceeded
one evening to Ratge public gardens, about a mile out of the city, and
found a large assembly of persons promenading the grounds, with two
bands of music playing alternately.
About eight o'clock we observed a general move towards a pavilion,
brilliantly lighted with a great number of variegated lamps, and in a
short time appeared seventeen ladies and ten gentlemen, all evidently of
this peculiar tribe.
The singing of solos, duets, and occasionally a full chorus, was
singularly wild, and strikingly delightful. So eminent have they been
considered, that it is related of Catalini, that after one of the
performers had finished, she tore off a cashmere shawl which had been
presented to her by the Pope, and embracing the gypsy, insisted on her
accepting the splendid gift, intended for the matchless songster.
The evening amusements closed with the siege of Canton, exhibiting such
a display of fireworks, cannonading, and destruction of buildings and
boats as I had never seen before.
The boulevards are nicely laid out with broad walks, with occasional
seats, and planted on each side with trees and shrubs. Near to them is
the flower garden, which consists of numerous small gardens, containing
huts of painted wood filled with a variety of flowers and shrubs, mostly
of a common sort, and some cherry and peach trees planted in pots.
In this country fruit is scarce, and of course dear, so different to the
south of Europe, an important circumstance to the teetotaller.
We also visited the Moscow Hotel--not a coffee house, coffee being
little used--but one of the largest tea houses in the city, where
traders of all ranks assemble to settle their various bargains with
copious libations of tea, which they drink out of large glass goblets.
I have not the dimensions of this establishment, but perhaps some idea
of its size may be formed by the daily consumption of 14lbs. of tea,
requiring about six tons of water. The waiters are all dressed in white
jackets, pantaloons, and aprons.
Another day we took a drive to one of the cemeteries--of great extent,
but not containing any remarkable monuments.
Here we visited Peterskoi, another palace, more comfortable, being of
moderate extent and less decorated.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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