The chief interest attached to this chateau is that refugees, when
Moscow was in flames, fled to it for safety, and an apartment is shown
where by the light of the flaming city Napoleon dictated the dispatch
conveying the sad intelligence to France.
A little further on is the racecourse, which to our great surprise we
found attended by a concourse of people, and the riders mounted just
ready to set off. After witnessing two heats, displaying no
extraordinary speed, we left the ground. This sort of sport, we were
told, is not much encouraged by the Russians, nor should we suppose
there is much gambling, when a bet of L50 by Sir Robt. Peel occasioned
the greatest surprise.
The following afternoon we set off to Sparrow Hill, and partook of some
tea under a small tent commanding a splendid view of Moscow, and said to
be the spot whence Napoleon had his first glance of this wonderful city.
Some parts of the road were exceedingly bad, very deep ruts, reminding
me of some of the mud turnpikes in America. Whilst the horse was resting
our guide partook of some quas, the common drink of the country, which
we found to be a sort of weak muddy beer, rather acid.
A little further on the way we heard a shepherd amusing himself and his
flock by playing on the green willow.
We visited the fish market, containing a great variety of fish, many of
them all alive in large tanks of water, and others carefully preserved
in blocks of ice.
On revisiting the Kremlin for the last time, we were fortunate in
witnessing an extraordinary procession, more than 200 priests in their
varied gorgeous robes, bearing canopies, holy standards, and other
insignia, amidst the jingling of scores of bells, which only ceased
after they had all entered the cathedral.
Before quitting this wonderful city I took a parting glance from the
terrace on the roof of our hotel, whence I counted more than 250 domes
and spires, many of them gilt, and others, with the roofs of many of the
houses beautifully coloured, forming a truly splendid panorama.
On our return at 12 o'clock noon, the same hour we left for St.
Petersburg; we took two second-class tickets, and found ourselves more
comfortable than in the saloon of the first class, arriving very
punctually at 8 o'clock the following morning.
The same day we renewed our visit to St. Isaac's Cathedral, which we
found surrounded by a numerous concourse of people, with a military
guard stationed at the chief entrance, and a splendid carpet covering
the steps leading to the cathedral.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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