A Journey in Southeastern MexicoHarper, Henry Howard
History
A Journey in Southeastern Mexico
Harper, Henry Howard
Tuxpan de Rodríguez Cano (Mexico); Veracruz-Llave (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel
[5] See description of the _tortilla_ on p. 36.
We made but little progress during the day. That night after going over
the various phases of the situation and fighting mosquitoes--which
would bite through our garments at any point where they happened to
alight--with no prospect of any rest during the entire night, we found
ourselves wrought up to such a mutinous state of mind that it appeared
inevitable that something must be done, and that quickly. We directed
our interpreter to awaken the owner of the boat and explain the facts
to him, which he did. He told him that we had become desperate and that
if not landed in Tuxpam in forty-eight hours we purposed putting both
him and his man ashore, dumping the cargo, and taking the boat back to
Tampico; that we would not be fooled with any longer, and that if he
offered any resistance both he and his man would be ejected by main
force. The interpreter was a tall, powerful man, standing six feet and
two inches in his stocking feet, and had a commanding voice. He had
spent several years on the Mexican frontier along the Rio Grande, and
understood the Mexicans thoroughly. He needed only the suggestion from
us in order to lay the law down to them in a manner not to be mistaken
for jesting. This he did for at least ten minutes with scarcely a break
of sufficient duration to catch his breath. The boatman, thinking
that we were of easy-going, good-natured dispositions, had been quite
indifferent to our remonstrances, but he was now completely overwhelmed
with astonishment at this sudden outburst. He begged to be given
another trial, and said he would not make another stop, except to rest
at night, until we reached Tuxpam. We passed a sleepless night with
the mosquitoes, frogs, cranes, pelicans, ducks--and perhaps a dozen
other varieties of insects and waterfowl--all buzzing, quacking and
squawking in unison on every side. In the morning my physical condition
was not improved. A little after noon we approached a small settlement
on the border of the lake, and stopped to see if we could obtain some
medicine and provisions. Our interpreter found what seemed to be the
principal man of the place, who took us into his house and provided us
with a very good dinner and a couple of quart bottles of Madeira. I had
partaken of no food for nearly thirty-six hours, and was unable now to
eat anything. We explained to him about the smallpox episode and he
agreed that I had all the customary symptoms of the disease. I wrote a
message to be despatched by courier to Tampico and from there cabled
home, but on second thought it seemed unwise to disturb my family
when it was utterly impossible for any of them to reach me speedily,
so I tore it up. We arranged for a canoe and four men to start that
night and hurry us back to Tampico with all possible speed. The member
of our party who had been suffering with headache and dizziness had
eaten a hearty dinner, and having had a few glasses of Madeira he was
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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