A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 1 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and CumberlandRadcliffe, Ann Ward
History
A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 1 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland
Radcliffe, Ann Ward
Europe -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Lake District (England) -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Radcliffe, Ann Ward, 1764-1823 -- Travel -- Europe
The substantial remains of the Cathedral are one aisle, in which divine
service is performed, and a lofty, magnificent Gothic tower, that
stands apart from it. The ascent of this tower is one of the tasks
prescribed to strangers, and, laborious as it is, the view from the
summit sufficiently rewards them. A stone staircase, steep, narrow, and
winding, after passing several grated doors, leads into a floor, which
you hope is at the top, but which is little more than half way up. Here
the family of the belfryman fill several decently furnished apartments,
and shew the great bell, with several others, the noise of which, it
might be supposed, no human ears could bear, as they must, at the
distance of only three, or four yards. After resting a few minutes in
a room, the windows of which command, perhaps, a more extensive land
view than any other inhabited apartment in Europe, you begin the second
ascent by a staircase still narrower and steeper, and, when you seem
to be so weary as to be incapable of another step, half the horizon
suddenly bursts upon the view, and all your meditated complaints are
overborne by expressions of admiration.
Towards the west, the prospect, after including the rich plain of
gardens near Utrecht, extends over the province of Holland, intersected
with water, speckled with towns, and finally bounded by the sea, the
mists of which hide the low shores from the sight. To the northward,
the Zuyder Zee spreads its haziness over Amsterdam and Naerden; but
from thence to the east, the spires of Amersfoort, Rhenen, Arnheim,
Nimeguen and many intermediate towns, are seen amongst the woods and
hills, that gradually rise towards Germany. South-ward, the more
mountainous district of Cleves and then the level parts of Guelderland
and Holland, with the windings of the Waal and the Leck, in which the
Rhine loses itself, complete a circle of probably more than sixty
miles diameter, that strains the sight from this tremendous steeple.
The almost perpendicular view into the streets of Utrecht affords
afterwards some relief to the eye, but increases any notions of danger,
you may have had from observing, that the open work Gothic parapet,
which alone prevents you from falling with dizziness, has suffered
something in the general decay of the church.
While we were at the top, the bells struck; and, between the giddiness
communicated by the eye, and the stunning effect of a sound that seemed
to shake the steeple, we were compelled to conclude sooner than had
been intended this comprehensive and farewell prospect of Holland.
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