A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 1 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and CumberlandRadcliffe, Ann Ward
History
A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 1 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland
Radcliffe, Ann Ward
Europe -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Lake District (England) -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Radcliffe, Ann Ward, 1764-1823 -- Travel -- Europe
The Mall, which is esteemed the chief ornament of Utrecht, is, perhaps,
the only avenue of the sort in Europe, still fit to be used for the
game that gives its name to them all. The several rows of noble trees
include, at the sides, roads and walks; but the centre is laid out
for the game of _Mall_, and, though not often used, is in perfect
preservation. It is divided so as to admit of two parties of players
at once, and the side-boards sufficiently restrain spectators. The
Mall in St. James's Park was kept in the same state, till 1752, when
the present great walk was formed over the part, which was separated
by similar side-boards. The length of that at Utrecht is nearly three
quarters of a mile. The luxuriance and loftiness of the trees preserve
a perspective much superior to that of St. James's, but in the
latter the whole breadth of the walks is greater, and the view is more
extensive, as well as more ornamented.
This city, being a sort of capital to the neighbouring nobility, is
called the politest in the United Provinces, and certainly abounds,
more than the others, with the professions and trades, which are
subservient to splendour. One practice, observed in some degree, in all
the cities, is most frequent here; that of bows paid to all parties,
in which there are ladies, by every gentleman who passes. There are,
however, no plays, or other public amusements; and the festivities,
or ceremonies, by which other nations commemorate the happier events
in their history, are as unusual here as in the other parts of the
United Provinces, where there are more occasions to celebrate and fewer
celebrations than in most European countries. Music is very little
cultivated in any of the cities, and plays are to be seen only at
Amsterdam and the Hague, where German and Dutch pieces are acted upon
alternate nights. At Amsterdam, a French Opera-house has been shut up,
and, at the Hague, a _Comédie_, and the actors ordered to leave the
country.
The ramparts of the city, which are high and command extensive
prospects, are rather emblems of the peacefulness, which it has long
enjoyed, than signs of any effectual resistance, prepared for an enemy.
They are in many places regularly planted with trees, which must be
old enough to have been spared, together with the Mall, by Louis the
Fourteenth; in others, pleasure houses, instead of batteries, have
been raised upon them. A few pieces of old cannon are planted for the
purpose of saluting the Prince of ORANGE, when he passes the city.
Trechtschuyts go no further eastward than this place, so that we hired
a voiturier's carriage, a sort of curricle with a driver's box in
front, for the journey to Nimeguen. The price for thirty-eight, or
thirty-nine miles, was something more than a guinea and a half; the
horses were worth probably sixty pounds upon the spot, and were as able
as they were showy, or they could not have drawn us through the deep
sands, that cover one third of the road.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account