A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 1 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and CumberlandRadcliffe, Ann Ward
History
A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 1 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland
Radcliffe, Ann Ward
Europe -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Lake District (England) -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Radcliffe, Ann Ward, 1764-1823 -- Travel -- Europe
From Helvoetsluys to this place the usual way is by the Brill and
Maesland sluice, with several changes of carriages and boats; but, on
the days of the arrival of mails, a Rotterdam skipper, whose vessel has
been left at a hamlet on the Maese, takes his party in carriages across
the island of Voorn, on which Helvoetsluys stands, to his schuyt, and
from thence by the Maese to Rotterdam. We paid two ducats, or about
seventeen shillings, for the whole, and found this the highest price
given for travelling in Holland. Our carriage was a sort of small coach
of the fashion, exhibited in paintings of the sixteenth century, but
open before, and so ill-furnished with springs, that the Dutch name,
"a covered waggon," was not an improper description of it. A bad road
led us through some meadows of meagre grass, and through fields in
which corn was higher, though thinner, than in England. The prospect
was over an entire level to the horizon, except that the spires of
distant villages, some small clusters of trees, and now and then a
wind-mill, varied it. As we approached any of these clusters, we found
usually a neat farm-house sheltered within, and included, together
with its garden and orchard, in a perfect green fence: the fields
were elsewhere separated from each other and from the road, neither
by hedges or walls, but by deep ditches filled with water, over which
are laid small bridges, that may be opened in the middle by a sort of
trap-door, raised and locked to a post, to prevent the intrusion of
strangers.
On the way we passed now and then a waggon filled with large brass
jugs, bright as new gold. In these vessels, which have short narrow
necks, covered with a wooden stopper, milk is brought from the field
throughout Holland. It is always carried to the towns in light waggons,
or carts, drawn frequently by horses as sleek and well-conditioned as
those in our best coaches.
The hamlet, at which we were to embark, was busied in celebrating
some holiday. At the only cottage, that had a sign, we applied for
refreshment, partly for the purpose of seeing its inside, by which
we were not a little gratified. Thirty or forty peasants were seated
upon benches, about a circle, in which children were dancing to the
scraping of a French fiddler. The women wore their large hats, set
up in the air like a spread fan, and lined with damask, or flowered
linen. Children of seven years old, as well as women of seventy, were
in this preposterous disguise. All had necklaces, ear-rings, and
ornamental clasps for the temples, of solid gold: some wore large black
patches of the size of a shilling. The old woman of the house had a
valuable necklace and head-dress. Among the group were many of Teniers'
beauties; and over the countenances of the whole assemblage was an air
of modesty, decorum, and tranquillity. The children left their dancing,
to see us; and we had almost lost our tide to Rotterdam, by staying to
see them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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