A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 2 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland; Second EditionRadcliffe, Ann Ward
History
A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 2 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland; Second Edition
Radcliffe, Ann Ward
Europe -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Lake District (England) -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Radcliffe, Ann Ward, 1764-1823 -- Travel -- Europe
These postillions acknowledge no obligation to travellers, who
usually give double what can be demanded, and seem to consider them
only as so many bales of goods, which they are under a contract with
the post-master to deliver at a certain place and within a certain
time. Knowing, that their slowness, if there is no addition to their
_trinkgeld_, is of itself sufficient to compel some gratuity, they do
not depart from the German luxury of incivility, and frequently return
no answer, when they are questioned, as to distance, or desired to call
the servant of an inn, or to quit the worst part of a road. When you
tell them, that they shall have a good _drinkhealth_ for speed, they
reply, "Yaw, yaw;" and, after that, think it unnecessary to reply to
any enquiry till they ask you for the money at the end of a stage. They
are all provided with tobacco boxes and combustible bark, on which they
stop to strike with a flint and steel, immediately after leaving their
town; in the hottest day and on the most dusty road, they will begin
to smoke, though every whiff flies into the faces of the passengers
behind; and it must be some very positive interference, that prevents
them from continuing it.
As long as there are horses not engaged at any post-house, the people
are bound to supply travellers, within half an hour after their
arrival; but all the German Princes and many of their Ministers are
permitted to engage the whole stock on the road they intend to pass;
and it frequently happens, that individuals may be detained a day, or
even two, by such an order, if there should be no voiturier to furnish
them with others. At Cologne and Bonn, when we were first there, all
the horses were ordered for the Emperor, who passed through, however,
with only one carriage, accompanied by an Aide-de-camp and followed
by two servants, on horseback. It happens also frequently, that a
sudden throng of private travellers has employed the whole stock of the
post-masters; and the present emigrations from Liege and Juliers, we
were assured, had filled the roads so much, that we might be frequently
detained in small towns, and should find even the best overwhelmed with
crowds of fugitives.
During a stay of five days at Mentz, we often wandered amidst the
ruins of the late siege, especially on the site of the Favorita, from
whence the majestic Rhine is seen rolling from one chain of mountains
to another. Near this spot, and not less fortunately situated, stood
a Carthusian convent, known in English history for having been the
head-quarters of George the Second, in the year 1743, soon after
the battle of Dettingen. The apartments, used by this monarch, were
preserved in the state, in which he left them, till a short time
before the late siege, when the whole building was demolished, so that
scarcely a trace of it now remains.
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