A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 2 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland; Second EditionRadcliffe, Ann Ward
History
A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 2 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland; Second Edition
Radcliffe, Ann Ward
Europe -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Lake District (England) -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Radcliffe, Ann Ward, 1764-1823 -- Travel -- Europe
We soon passed the wooded island, called _Peters-au_, of so much
consequence, during the siege, for its command of the bridge; and,
approaching the mountains of the Rheingau to the north, the most
sublime in this horizon, saw their summits veiled in clouds, while the
sun soon melted the mists, that dimmed their lower sides, and brought
out their various colouring of wood, corn and soils. It was, however,
nearly two hours before the windings of the Rhine permitted us to
reach any of their bases. Meanwhile the river flowed through highly
cultivated plains, chiefly of corn, with villages thickly scattered on
its banks, in which are the country houses of the richer inhabitants of
Mentz, among pleasant orchards and vineyards. Those on the right bank
are in the dominions of the Prince of Nassau Usingen, who has a large
chateau in the midst of them, once tenanted, for a night, by George the
Second, and the Duke of Cumberland.
The Rhine is here, and for several leagues downward, of a very noble
breadth, perhaps wider than in any other part of its German course; and
its surface is animated by many islands covered with poplars and low
wood. The western shore, often fringed with pine and elms, is flat;
but the eastern begins to swell into hillocks near Wallauf, the last
village of Nassau Usingen, and once somewhat fortified.
Here the _Rheingau_, or the country of the vines, commences, and we
approached the northern mountains, which rise on the right in fine
sweeping undulations. These increased in dignity as we advanced, and
their summits then appeared to be darkened with heath and woods, which
form part of the extensive forest of _Landeswald_, or, _Woodland_.
Hitherto the scenery had been open and pleasant only, but now the
eastern shore began to be romantic, starting into heights, so abrupt,
that the vineyards almost overhung the river, and opening to forest
glens, among the mountains. Still, however, towns and villages
perpetually occurred, and the banks of the river were populous, though
not a vessel besides our own appeared upon it.
On the eastern margin are two small towns, Ober- and Nieder-Ingelheim,
which, in the midst of the dominions of Mentz, belong to the Elector
Palatine. On this shore also is made one of the celebrated wines of the
Rhine, called Markerbrunner, which ranks next to those of Johannesberg
and Hockheim. At no great distance on the same shore, but beneath a
bank somewhat more abrupt, is the former of these places, alienated
in the sixteenth century from the dominions of Mentz, to those of the
Abbot, now Prince Bishop of Fulde.
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