A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that countryHarris, Walter
History
A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that country
Harris, Walter
Yemen (Republic) -- Description and travel
The town of Menakha is quite a small one. It contains, perhaps, some
five thousand inhabitants, without counting the very considerable number
of Turkish troops stationed there at the time of my visit. The houses
are well built of stone, some of them four storeys, and many three, in
height. The Government offices and the military hospital and barracks
give the place quite a European appearance, for they are all built in
modern Turkish style, with glass windows and flat roofs.
The bazaar is tolerably well supplied with the necessaries of life,
though at the time of my visit meat and vegetables were scarce, on
account of the influx of troops. There are, too, several large shops,
one or two kept by Greeks. I was surprised, in passing through the town,
to be accosted in excellent English by one of these shopkeepers, who, he
told me, had been a servant to an Englishman in Suakin for some years.
I went with him to his store, where everything was purchasable, from
sardines to port wine, and spent half an hour or so talking with him. He
was evidently an intellectual man, and seemed well up in the affairs of
the Yemen. He had been present at the taking of Menakha by the Arabs, and
its recapture by the Turks; but his property had been respected in both
cases, and he had suffered little if any loss.
The great altitude at which Menakha is situated—some seven thousand six
hundred feet above the sea-level—renders it liable to sudden changes of
temperature; and two hours after we had arrived in blazing sunshine,
clouds gathered over the town, obscuring the view, and the temperature
fell to below 50°. We managed to procure a charcoal brasier, over which
my men and I huddled, our circle being joined by a couple of charming
Turkish officers, both of whom spoke Arabic well.
About eight o’clock I was taken suddenly ill with fever, which did not
leave me until ten the next morning, by which time I was so weak that
I could only stand with assistance, and accordingly travelling was out
of the question. The Kaimakam made no difficulties about my remaining
another day, and did all in his power to make me comfortable. During the
afternoon I had sufficiently recovered my strength to crawl out and seek
the shade of a hollow in the rocks, where my men lit a little fire and
brewed coffee. The spot we had chosen looked directly into the great
valley that runs west from Menakha, far down which we could see. Away
below us, tier above tier, were the terraced coffee and banana groves;
while the rocky precipices, here bare and frowning, were in other parts
hung with creepers, while in every crevice some strange flowering aloes
had found room to grow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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