Taken to the boat in an omnibus an hour too soon, this a pretty general
practice. Sailed 1/4 past seven, observed some boats not more than one
yard across and about 5 yds. long like small canoes. Saw two turtles
opposite to Washington Fort; they dived instantly; saw a good deal of
grass on the Potomack, which is supposed to be carried off the land by
the hurricanes. Thunder and lightning every evening but the last whilst
at Washington. Dined at Fredricksburgh; paid 50 cents, and 5 dollars to
Charlottesville, the road so far splendid, through woody country. Two
intelligent persons in the stage, one addicted to chewing much tobacco
and spitting; the matter was argued. Saw the first snake lying dead on
the road side, about one yard long. The worm fence generally used. The
trees generally ringed, an easy way of clearing the wood. The roads
paved in some places by logs of wood thrown across. Stopped at Chestnut
Hill for supper nearly half past eleven; had coffee, chickens, honey,
and was charged 50 cents; on being complained of they said great
uncertainty as to number; had to provide for 10 or 12 and sometimes only
two or three came. The driver did not whip much, but spoke to his horses
kindly, as Punch, Sammy, Phoebe, etc.
Got to Orange Court 1/4 past one, told we should be called at three;
objected to a double-bedded room, afterwards shown another to myself,
found the charge only 25 cents. The greater part of the negroes are
slaves; one 40 years of age, worth 400 or 450 dollars; not allowed to
remain here when freed; frequently bought by dealers who chain them
together; the worst are generally disposed of first.
FRIDAY, JUNE 27TH.
Rested very well; rose at half past three and set off at four; the road
worse than any existing coal pit road I ever saw in England, full of
ruts with stony rocks and stumps of wood projecting. Arrival at
Gordonville to breakfast at six; paid 50 cents which I could not grudge
as the coffee was very good. The road generally better, but in one or
two places worse than ever I had seen before; many pigs and long-nosed
boars with bristles like porcupines, active in discovering snakes; a
black snake 2 feet long killed by the coachman's whip; a little farther
on a large lizard; a young hare and two partridges; beautiful trees
rising very high on both banks; several saw-mills; the planks covering
the bridges are loose and some of them slender. Got to Charlottesville
at ten; part of the way very sleepy, so that there is danger of falling
especially when jolting.
Dined at Brookville, the first Blue Ridge Mountain, good plain dinner
with excellent milk and honey. Walked up the mountain, saw great
quantities of whinberries; a delightful stream of water near the summit.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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