Arrived at Staunton at seven, very sleepy the last stage; sometimes the
driver and I asleep at the same time, and the road very hilly, quite
wonderful that I should have arrived safe. Many of the houses here are
built as in Switzerland; trees are just squared and notched, or
dove-tailed at the ends; sometimes the interstices are filled with clay
or mortar. The wild vine climbs to the top of the highest trees.
SATURDAY, JUNE 28TH.
Rose at four having slept very soundly, a natural consequence of only
two hours the night before and riding outside all day. Disappointed
about getting a seat with the driver, which was occupied by a coloured
man whom they would not permit to go inside. Found the passengers truly
American, asking many questions and lauding the country. Passed through
a forest chiefly of oak. A branch of walnut brushed across the coach and
left a perfume behind. Paid for supper and bed 75 cents. Arrived 1/4
past seven A.M. Paid for breakfast 50 cents, the usual price in this
town because not much frequented except at certain seasons to the
spring. Breakfasted at Jenning's Gap. Just before ascending a steep part
of the mountain I got out to walk but it began to rain and I had to
resume my seat. The streams of mud through which we dashed were quite
astounding. On descending we found no rain. Dined at Charrodale on
venison taken in the mountains, 50 cents. One of our travellers, a
German who plays on the guitar and the pianoforte, along with three
others; he sang the "Swiss Boy" to us.
I here mounted the roof of the coach as the blacks were not permitted to
enter it; before we got to the foot of the mountain there came on a
terrible storm of thunder and lightning with tremendous rain. It cleared
up and we had a beautiful drive over the mountain before descending to
the warm springs. We descended safely, if the drag chain had snapt we
should have been thrown down the precipice. Got to Warm Springs at
seven; took coffee. Then took the bath which seemed very hot, though
only called the Warm Springs, 96 degrees. Felt very warm in bed though
not disagreeably so. Most of the trees are oak and pine.
SUNDAY, JUNE 29TH.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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