Got up at half past six, felt restored and now think it better than
pushing on in the steamboat last night. The young man confirmed the old
Irishman's account of the student at Meadville, viz. that the young one
we had seen would be at his studies in the morning, and in the afternoon
discharge his board by working as a blacksmith. Accompanied on board the
steamer by the innkeeper; found the wind favourable; sailed soon after 8
A.M. not a nice boat and the engine out of order, so that we shall be
late before we get into Buffalo. Read in a periodical belonging to one
of the passengers a terrible story written by Lord Morpeth. A most
delightful breeze on the lake; how different to yesterday when stewed on
the coach and covered with dust. Had some good singing on board by
Methodists; got out at Portland and had a most delicious bath before
dinner. Called at Dunkirk, also at Silver Creek; prevailed upon the
ladies (Methodists) to sing again; paid for passage two dollars and 1/2
for dinner. Read a good deal in the "Temperance Intelligencer," in which
a correspondent attempted to prove that the wine approved in Scripture
was not fermented; another disapproves of the use of cyder and
recommends the cutting down of apple trees. Landed at Buffalo at 8 P.M.
a very pleasant sail. Some trouble in getting my portmanteau to the inn;
an offer from Irishmen who did not know the place. Here informed of a
change in the English Ministry.
WEDNESDAY, JULY 16TH.
Rose at six and felt somewhat languid, having never I suppose had time
for such feelings. No walking in America; taken down by stages to the
boats however short the distance. Bought a pennyworth of cracked hickory
nuts. A delightful breeze. Met on the steamer an English gentleman, his
lady and child. Set off in a stage and left Buffalo at eleven A.M.;
found it a pleasant drive mostly along the banks of the river. Arrived
at Niagara soon after four P.M. Immediately set off to the Falls;
engaged till nearly seven without thinking of food, though I had eaten
nothing since six this morning. Much struck with the Bridge over the
Rapids to the Goat Island. Then walked towards the ferry, an immense
sheet of water though only a small part compared with the Horse Shoe;
returned and crossed over to Goat Island down Biddle's Staircase between
the two cascades; afterwards to the bridge that overhangs the tremendous
Fall, a huge piece of rock below occasionally visible when the foam was
blown away; the vast clouds of mist rising very considerably into the
air, and the stream for a great distance as white as milk. Ascended the
tower[17], whence there is a more extensive view of the Rapids above as
well as the river below. Again, after tea I went over the same ground
and had a moonlight view of this most wonderful spectacle.
THURSDAY, JULY 17TH.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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