Rose before six, again visited the Falls. Left soon after eight; paid
the porter 12-1/2 cents, but he wanted more for cleaning my shoes. A
favourable passage across as the wind blew the spray upwards; the water
in parts much agitated; the ferryman demanded six cents extra for my
baggage; nobody to carry it forward up the hill to the hotel; a man who
came in the boat offered to carry it for 50 cents; this I refused and
set off with it myself. I had not carried it more than two-thirds up the
hill before I repented; the man came up and agreed for 25 cents; as it
proved further than I expected I gave him a glass in addition. After
changing my flannel shirt and getting a glass of milk I set off to the
Falls, found a party going under the cascade; undressed and put on
trousers, an oil-case jacket with a belt and a pair of rough shoes, and
descended the staircase. There were two ladies but they were placed
under the care of the guide. The rock projects amazingly, the path is
narrow and rather slippery being constantly wet with the spray; at one
place we were told to keep our heads down and hold our breath. I must
say it proved more of an adventure than I expected; it resembled a
tremendous shower of rain blown at us with the utmost fury; nothing much
is to be seen, and I scarcely think it worth the trouble; the visit
might be rendered much safer by means of a chain fastened alongside of
the rock. A more irregular confused hotel, I never was in. Walked to the
Falls alone by moonlight.
FRIDAY, JULY 18TH.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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