England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
An ancient coaching hostelry of some pretence, that has seen better
days and other ways, that has not been modernised, standing forlorn
by the roadside, but still appearing too proud to mourn its long-lost
prosperity, always makes its appeal to me, for it strikes a pathetic
note. I do not need the building to be picturesque, though I would
prefer it thus, so long as it be not too much decayed, only that it
possess the glamour of age, has entertained travellers of the long ago,
and so made its little history. Then I humour my fancy. Many an old inn
of this kind has a sort of magnetic attraction for the few who indulge
in that despised article, sentiment: Stevenson confessed that he could
never get over his hankering after a room in a wayside tavern in which
to start his tale. There is romance about a lonely and once flourishing
inn, however plain that inn may be--romance that clings to it as surely
as ivy clings to a crumbling ruin. I feel that, in the days gone by,
some eventful happening only waiting to be revealed must have taken
place within the walls of such a one, some romance unrecorded yet.
For real romance lingered long into the coaching age, but steam and
electricity have killed it. Now
Romance beside his unstrung lute,
Lies stricken mute.
Had "The Sheffield Arms" a tale to tell? To me it looked as though it
had, but then it must be remembered the poetry of a place lies as much
in the eyes of the beholder as in the place itself; what is a romance
in building to one is but bricks and mortar to another. We do not all
see alike; a Turner, a David Cox, a Constable would each render the
same landscape differently. Once when admiring an old ivy-covered Tudor
manor-house I ventured to remark to a native on the beauty of it; he
scornfully rejoined, "I see nought in it, it wants pulling down." The
eye is but a lens; it is the mind that really sees and interprets.
"The Sheffield Arms" is well retired from the highway by a wide space
of grassy ground whereon grows a flourishing clump of trees; on the
roadside of this clump stands a large, two-pillared, crossed-top
signpost; from this depends a swinging sign, in the good old-fashioned
way as an inn-sign should--a sign that boldly proclaims the business
of the house, so that even the rushing motorist could hardly pass it
unheeded by. Without the needful sign one would hardly guess that
the shy building was an inn, so little otherwise does it assert its
purpose--and modesty becomes even a building!
There I pulled up beneath the welcome shade of the trees, sought the
cool interior of the hostel and called for a glass of ale, for the day
was hot, and mortal man is sometimes thirsty. The ale was good, and
brought to mind the poet's query:
Say, for what were hop-yards meant,
Or why was Burton built on Trent?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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