A narrative of travels in northern Africa in the years 1818, 19, and 20; accompanied by geographical notices of Soudan and of the course of the NigerLyon, G. F. (George Francis)
History
A narrative of travels in northern Africa in the years 1818, 19, and 20; accompanied by geographical notices of Soudan and of the course of the Niger
Lyon, G. F. (George Francis)
Fezzan (Libya) -- Description and travel; Tripolitania -- Description and travel
As I was in the dress of the country, and very anxious to witness
the whole of the ceremonies, I ventured to go out with our Dragoman,
and to make my way to the mosque from which the procession was to
set out. I certainly felt that my situation was a very dangerous one;
but being resolved on the attempt, and telling the man to follow me
closely, I dashed in with the crowd, and succeeded in getting near
the Saints, who, with dishevelled hair, were rapidly turning round,
and working themselves into a most alarming state of frenzy. A
band of barbarous music was playing to them, while several men
were constantly employed in sprinkling them with rose-water. Had I
been discovered, my life would have been in very great jeopardy;
but fortunately I was able to keep my countenance, and to pass
unnoticed; and when the performers were sufficiently inspired,
sallied out with them, and followed through the streets. One had a
large nail run through his face from one cheek to the other; and all
had bitten their tongues in so violent a manner as to cause blood
and saliva to flow copiously. They were half naked, at intervals
uttering short groans and howls; and as they proceeded (sometimes
three or four abreast leaning on each other,) they threw their heads
backwards and forwards with a quick motion, which caused the blood
to rise in their faces, and their eyes to project from the sockets to
a frightful degree. Their long black hair, which grew from the crown
of the head (the other parts being closely shaven), was continually
waving to and fro, owing to the motion of the head. One or two,
who were the most furious, and who continually attempted to run at
the crowd, were held by a man on each side, by means of a rope,
or a handkerchief tied round the middle. As we passed through
one of the streets, a party of Maltese and other Christians were
discovered on a terrace, and were instantly assailed by showers of
stones. I observed that whenever the Marāboots passed the house
of a Christian, they affected to be ungovernable, and endeavoured
to get near it, pretending they made the discovery by smelling out
Unbelievers. After following for an hour or two, during which I
witnessed the most horrible and revolting scenes, I returned home,
when, to my great amusement, I learnt that a rumour prevailed of
my having been attacked and very ill treated; and that I had,
in defending myself, stabbed a Marāboot, and ran away, no one
knew whither. I was happy to be enabled in person to contradict
these reports, and to prove that I had escaped not only unhurt,
but unobserved. There were two parties who traversed the town;
but from their being of opposite sects, and at war with each other,
it was so arranged that they should take different routes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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