A narrative of travels in northern Africa in the years 1818, 19, and 20; accompanied by geographical notices of Soudan and of the course of the NigerLyon, G. F. (George Francis)
History
A narrative of travels in northern Africa in the years 1818, 19, and 20; accompanied by geographical notices of Soudan and of the course of the Niger
Lyon, G. F. (George Francis)
Fezzan (Libya) -- Description and travel; Tripolitania -- Description and travel
Monday, 8th February.—At eight we started, and travelled
south-west by south over a country nearly desert, until ten, when
we passed a few corn-fields, and a pretty plain covered with tents
and flocks. Here we stopped to examine the ruins of the Castle of
Mejnine مجنين. This was once used as a frontier post for the
troops of the Bashaw, who kept the rebel Arab tribes in check;
but having been built of mud and small stones, the rains have
now washed it nearly away: part of the walls only and a gate are
still standing. From this place we had a fine view of the Gharian
mountains, and observed that several hills in the range were in a
conical form. On leaving it, we proceeded until 1.30. P.M. when we
stopped at a tent by the invitation of an Arab, who had ridden the
preceding day in our company. He gave us a hearty welcome, and set
before us a large wooden bowl of dates, mashed up with hot oil, which
we found very good; its appearance was not unlike soft soap. The
women sat behind a carpet, and peeped at us through a small hole
in it. After quitting our kind host, we crossed the broad bed of
a water-course, when our road lay between two mountains, the right
hand one being called Smeeran سميران and that on the left Batus
بتس distant from each other about one mile and a half. Here the
ground began to rise a little, and greater quantities of herbage
appeared. We travelled on in hopes of finding a well until 4.30.,
but without success; we therefore pitched our tents on a little
rising ground, near some Arabs, and after much trouble, succeeded in
purchasing a skin or two of water for our horses. The Sheikh provided
an excellent supper of Bazeen and stewed lamb for us; and we had a
full tent of Arabs squatted on their heels, who came to look at us
whilst we were eating. After our dinner we made a little coffee,
which, as well as our European cups, excited much astonishment. We
offered some to the Sheikh, who not knowing what it was, suspected
some treachery, and at first refused to take it; however, by a little
persuasion, we overcame his prejudice, and seeing that we ourselves
drank some, he at length swallowed it with confidence. One of the
party, on tasting some, spat it out in horror, calling loudly on
the Prophet, “Ya Rassoul Illa يارسول الله Oh, Prophet of
God!” A third was so much pleased with it, and became so great a
connoisseur, that he absolutely refused a second cup, because it
was too cold. A Kaleidoscope was handed round to the visitors,
and excited general admiration and amazement; like children,
they quarrelled for their turns to look through it, and if I might
judge from the repeated laughter and exclamations made use of, many
extraordinary observations were made on the subject. The old Sheikh
in particular would scarcely bear to have it taken out of his hand.
Jackals and hyænas are very numerous here; but the quantity of
noisy dogs which attend the flocks keep them in awe, whilst they
also kept us half the night awake.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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