Tuesday, 9th February.—At 7, A.M. we struck our tents, and went on for Gharian. The country here had quite changed its appearance. The paths, which in many places were covered with broken basalt, were uneven and difficult; and the ground became steep and irregular as we approached the foot of the mountains. At three we rode a little to the left of the track, and fastening our horses, climbed a small conical mountain of basalt, having very little earth at the top of it, and called El Kelb Assoud اكلب اسود or “the Black Dog.” Near this were two or three smaller hillocks, also entirely of basalt. Our road was through a barren, but beautiful and romantic valley, at the foot of the mountains. At ten we arrived at the foot of the Gharian Pass. This spot is encompassed on three sides by lofty mountains, and opens to the north-east. There are some scattered palms here, and a clear stream winds among them. Here a small Kafflé passed us, consisting of ten or twelve camels, and amongst them one or two Maherries, laden with Trona, or soda, الطرون from Fezzan. Their owners were brown, wild looking men, and appeared of a different cast from the Arabs of Tripoli. In this little valley, about ten years since, the Hasnadar, or Treasurer of the Bashaw, was murdered. He was on his way to collect tribute from the mountaineers (which, in those days, was rarely obtained but by force); and, as the Bashaw had newly made peace with them, he was but poorly attended. Whilst performing his ablutions and shaving his head, he was fired at and killed by some men stationed on the rocky pass, who again ascended their mountain. His party returned to Tripoli, and war was immediately declared. The Bashaw caused a numerous army to be fitted out to quell the insurgents, who, being joined by other discontented tribes, prepared for a vigorous resistance. Owing to the bravery of these people, and the natural strength of their passes and fastnesses, the Bashaw’s army were some weeks before they could ascend the mountains, and during that period many of them were killed. When at last they succeeded in taking possession, they exercised on the poor wretches every species of cruelty, suffocating them in their subterraneous habitations, by throwing into them heaps of wood and straw, and then setting fire to them. Twelve camels, laden with heads to the amount of two thousand, were sent into Tripoli as a token of triumph. These mountaineers have since conducted themselves peaceably; though before their defeat they were so much dreaded, that all communication through their country to the interior was cut off, and few people would venture amongst them. We were an hour in ascending the pass, which was the most difficult and dangerous I ever saw. The rocks were worn so smooth as to render it necessary for us to bestow constant attention on our horses, which we were obliged to lead; one false step would otherwise, in some places, have precipitated them down the side of the mountain. The camels,