A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
History
A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
On account of its high price, ambergris is frequently adulterated, the
commercial article being often nothing but an artificial mixture of
benzoin, olibanum, wax, and flour, with other substances, perfumed with
musk. Such adulterations are detected by the appearance, proportions
of solubility, nature of the fracture and the content of ash. A small
quantity of pure ambergris, exposed to heat, melts without forming
bubbles or scum. It is easily punctured with a heated needle, which,
when withdrawn, should come out clean and without anything adhering
to it, and the characteristic odor of ambergris should be immediately
evolved. The surface should be rugged, that with a smooth and uniform
surface being generally factitious.
In perfumery, ambergris is not so much used on account of its agreeable
odor, but rather to make the perfumes more constant.
CHAPTER VII.
ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS.
In speaking of the volatile oils used in perfumery, two artificial
perfume-materials, artificial oils of bitter almonds and wintergreen
have already been mentioned. There can be no doubt that when the
chemical construction of volatile oils is better known, chemistry
will succeed in preparing still more such combinations, valuable for
perfumery, or in converting cheap volatile oils into more valuable
ones, as has, for instance, been done by Bouchardat and Lafont, who
have successfully converted oil of turpentine into oil of lemons. These
chemists rectified French oil of turpentine at exactly 311° to 314.6°
F., dissolved in the distillate, which amounted to 120 grammes, an
equal quantity (120 grammes) of glacial acetic acid, cooled the mixture
and then carefully added, so that the temperature never exceeded 104°
F., 88 grammes of crystallized chromic acid dissolved in a sufficient
quantity of acetic acid. Notwithstanding that the greater portion of
the oil of turpentine remained unoxidized, a thorough reaction took
place, and the product of decomposition proved to be a hydrocarbon,
boiling at from 345.2° to 352.4° F., to which Bouchardat and Lafont
have applied the term "terpilene." The properties of this hydrocarbon,
especially its boiling point, corresponded with those of oil of lemons,
its odor also resembling that of the latter, but it contained about
one-sixth cymol which it was impossible to remove. Though thus far this
artificial oil of lemons is of no importance for perfumery, it is of
interest as showing the possibility of converting one volatile oil into
another.
The artificial musk, spoken of under "Musk," cannot be classed with the
previously-mentioned artificial perfumed-materials. The odoriferous
principle of the natural and artificial musk have nothing in common,
the odor depending not on a common chemical combination.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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