A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
Besides the artificial perfume-materials already mentioned, but a
few others are employed in perfumery, viz: _Cumarin_, _heliotropin_,
_vanillin_, and _nitrobenzol_, or _oil of mirbane_. Another series of
artificial perfume-materials, the so-called fruit ethers, have also
been recommended for perfumery purposes. Although such products are
sometimes used, their employment is not advisable, since they produce
an irritating effect upon the bronchial tubes and respiratory organs,
and frequently cause headache.
_Cumarin._--The agreeable odor of new-mown hay is chiefly due to the
sweet-scented vernal grass (_Anthoxanthum odoratum, L._). This grass
contains an odoriferous substance, the _cumarin_. The latter is also
found in many other plants; for instance, in the tonka bean (the seeds
of _Dipterix odorata_), in the sweet woodruff (_Asperula odorata_),
and, combined with melilotic acid, in the melilot (_Melilotus
officinalis, Descr._).
Cumarin forms small, colorless crystals of a silky lustre. It is very
hard, cracks between the teeth, shows a smooth fracture, and sinks in
water. It has a very agreeable aromatic odor, which, on rubbing the
substance with the fingers, becomes like that of oil of bitter almonds,
and has a bitter, warm, and pungent taste. When pure it melts at 152.6°
F., but when containing fat, like that separated from tonka beans, at
from 104° to 122° F. Its boiling point lies at 554° F.; it volatilizes,
however, at far lower temperatures, diffusing an odor resembling that
of oil of bitter almonds, and sublimating in white needles. It is
soluble in alcohol, ether, acetic acid, fat, and volatile oils. Of cold
water (59° F.) 400 parts are, according to Buchner, required for its
solution, but of boiling water only 45 parts.
Tonka beans are the ripe seeds of _Dipterix odorata_. They are much
used in perfumery on account of their content of cumarin, and formerly
constituted the initial point for its manufacture. In commerce two
varieties are distinguished, viz., _Dutch tonka beans_, derived from
_Dipterix odorata, Willd._, indigenous to the forests of Guiana,
and _English tonka beans_, from _Dipterix oppositifolia, Willd._,
indigenous to Cayenne.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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