A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
History
A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
From the Asiatics and Greeks the Romans also learned the use of
ointments. Pliny cannot say at what time they were introduced in Rome,
but states that after the conquest of Asia and the defeat of the King,
Antiochus, in the year 565, after the building of Rome, the censors
issued an edict prohibiting the sale of foreign ointments. However,
this edict was of no use, and the practice spread more and more,
Pliny speaking very bitterly about it. Regarding this extravagance
in ointments, Plutarch says: "Frankincense, cinnamon, spikenard, and
Arabian calamus are mixed together with the most careful art and sold
for large sums. It is an effeminate pleasure and has spoiled not only
the women but also the men, who will not sleep even with their own
wives if they do not smell of ointments and powders." Plutarch further
mentions an incident which must have created a sensation even in
luxurious Rome, as otherwise it would scarcely have been chronicled for
the benefit of posterity. Nero one day anointed himself with costly
ointments and scattered some of them over Otho. The next day Otho gave
Nero a banquet, and laid in all directions gold and silver tubes, which
poured forth expensive ointments like water, thoroughly saturating the
guests.
Directions for preparing ointments are contained in Theophrastus's
work "On Perfumes," in Dioscorides's "Medica materia," and Pliny's
"Historia naturalis." Dioscorides's receipts are the fullest. According
to Pliny, a distinction was made between the juice and the body, the
latter consisting of the fat oils and the former of the sweet-scented
substances. In preparing the ointments, the oil together with the
perfuming substances were heated in the water-bath. For instance,
rose ointment was, according to Dioscorides, prepared by mixing 5½
lbs. of bruised _Andropogon Schœnanthus_ with a little water, then
adding 20½ lbs. of oil and heating. After heating the oil was filtered
off, and the petals of one thousand roses were thrown into the oil,
the hands with which the rose leaves were pressed into the oil being
previously coated with honey. When the whole had stood for one night,
the oil was strained off and when all impurities had settled, it was
brought into another vessel and fresh rose leaves introduced, the
operation being several times repeated. However, according to the
opinion of the ancient ointment makers, no more odor was absorbed by
the oil after the seventh introduction of rose leaves. To fix the odor,
resins or gums were added to the ointments.
A process of distilling volatile oils was also known, the
odoriferous matter being caught by spreading wool over the heated
perfume-substances. The wool was afterwards subjected to pressure. This
process, of course, involved great loss and was available only for
substances containing much volatile oil.
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