A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
History
A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
Dioscorides also gives directions for making animal fats suitable for
the reception of perfumes. Beef-tallow, deer-fat, or the marrow of
animals was freed from all membranes, melted together with a little
salt in an entirely new vessel, and then poured into clean water, where
it was washed by rubbing with the hands, the water being frequently
renewed. Then it was boiled with equal parts of sweet-scented wine,
and after taking it from the fire it was allowed to stand over night.
The next day the cold fat was again boiled in a new vessel, with
sweet-scented wine, this operation being repeated until the fat had
lost every trace of disagreeable odor, when it was brought in contact
with the perfumes.
The consumption of perfume-substances by the ancient Romans must have
been enormous. The trade of the ointment makers (_ungentarii_) was so
extensive that the large street _Seplasia_ in old Capua was entirely
taken up by it, and the business must have paid well since the prices
realized were very high. However, in ancient times the business cannot
have been very agreeable, at least not in Greece, as shown by a passage
in Plutarch's Life of Pericles: "We take pleasure in ointments and
purple, but consider the dyers and ointment makers bondsmen and
mechanics."
Red and white paints, in the form of powder as well as of paste, were
extensively used by the Roman ladies. Chalk and white lead served for
white paint, and minium and carmine for red. Lovers preferred white
paints, a pale color being more becoming to them:--
"Palleat omnis amans; hic est
color aptus amanti."--(_Ovid._)
For black paints for the eyebrows roasted ant eggs or soot were used.
The Roman ladies paid as much attention to their natural, and also
false, hair as the fair ones of to-day. They curled their hair with
heated iron instruments, and perfumed them with fragrant oil. If from
age, sorrow, or other reasons, the hair was no longer black, it was
dyed, and it seems that a considerable number of hair-dyes were known
in Rome, amongst them some which are still employed to-day, such as
green nutshells and acetate of lead.
After the Romans had seen the blonde German maidens, blonde and red
hair became the fashion. To dye the hair blonde sharp alkaline soaps
were chiefly used. However, this or some other hair-dye seems to have
been very injurious, as it caused the hair to come out. The satirists
ridiculed this as well as the wigs, which were worn by men and women to
hide baldness, or on account of the color which could not be attained
by dyes.
Depilatories were also known to the Romans, the agents employed being
called _psilothrum_ and _dropax_. They were of vegetable origin, but
it is not exactly known from which plants they were derived.
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