A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
History
A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
For cleaning the teeth the Roman ladies used a dentifrice which does
not seem very inviting to us. It consisted of a urine imported from
Spain (_dens hiberna defricatus urina_). To perfume the breath or to
hide its bad odor, mouth-washes, perfumed with saffron, roses, etc.,
were used, or myrrh, mastic from Chios or perfumed pastilles were
chewed.
We know but little regarding the use of perfumeries and cosmetics in
the Middle Ages. In the wars during the migrations of the nations,
but little thought was very likely given to them, but as soon as the
nations became again settled and made sufficient progress in culture,
the taste for perfumes and other pleasures of life no doubt returned.
Our knowledge in this respect is limited to what is contained in the
works of physicians of the first centuries. Later on we find receipts
for cosmetics in the writings of Arabian physicians, such as Rhazes
(end of the 9th to the commencement of the 10th century), Avicenna
(end of the 10th to the commencement of the 11th century), and Mesuë
(11th century). To the 11th century also belong the works of the
celebrated Trotula, "_De mulierum passionibus_," "_Practica Trotulae
mulieris Salernitanae de curis mulierum_," and "_Trotula in utilitatem
mulierum_," all of which contain receipts for cosmetics. In the
14th century the most celebrated surgeon of the Middle Ages, Guy de
Chanlios, did not consider it beneath his dignity to devote a section
of his "Grande Chirurgie" to cosmetics. However, it was only in the
16th century that perfumes and cosmetics came again into prominent
notice in Italy, which at that time was the country of luxury and art.
Giovanni Marinello,[2] a physician, in 1562 wrote a work on "Cosmetics
for Ladies," which he dedicated to the ladies Victoria and Isabella
Palavicini. In the preface the author expresses the opinion that it
is only right and pleasing to God to place the gifts bestowed by him
in a proper light and to heighten them. He then proceeds to give
perfumes for various purposes, aromatic baths to keep the skin young
and fresh, means for increasing the stoutness of the entire body and
of separate limbs, and others for reducing them. He further recommends
certain remedies for making large eyes small, and small ones large.
The chapter on the hair is very fully treated. To prevent the hair
from coming out, rubbing with oil, and then washing with sorrel and
myrobalan is recommended. For promoting the growth of the hair, the
use of dried frogs, lizards, etc., rubbed to a powder, is prescribed.
Means for making the hair long and soft and curly are also given, and
others recommended for eyebrows and eyelashes. As depilatories lime
and orpiment are prescribed. Paints are also classed among general
cosmetics. Their use became at this time more and more fashionable, and
not only the face, but also the breast and neck were painted.
[2] Gli ornamenti delle donne, tratti dalle seriture d'una Reina
greca, par M. Giovanni Marinello in Venetia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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