A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity — John Shaqi
A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
According to their elementary composition the volatile oils may be
divided into three principal divisions:--
1. Volatile oils free from oxygen, terpene (camphene), or hydrocarbons.
2. Oxygenated volatile oils.
3. Volatile oils containing sulphur.
On account of the facility with which most of the volatile oils absorb
oxygen, oils originally free from oxygen are frequently a mixture of
hydrocarbons and combinations containing oxygen. The volatile oils
varying so much in their physical as well as their chemical properties,
a suitable classification of them has thus far been unsuccessful.
Most of the volatile oils contain a liquid hydrocarbon, _terpene_,
which is characterized neither by special taste nor odor, nor is
the peculiarity of a volatile oil dependent on it. In the direct
distillation of a volatile oil, for instance, lemon oil, this
hydrocarbon (citrene), passes first over and can, therefore, be readily
separated from the constituents on which depend the peculiarity
of lemon oil, and which distil over at a higher temperature. The
specific character of an oil is generally due to the portion of the
oil containing oxygen. Hence, manufacturers have endeavored to free
several of the volatile oils, used for perfumery and the preparation of
food, from the worthless terpene and at the same time to obtain them
in a concentrated form. Carvol is, for instance, caraway oil freed
from carvene (terpene). These concentrated oils are not only purer and
more agreeable in odor and taste and more readily soluble in dilute
alcohol, but, being more concentrated, an equal volume of them goes
much further than ordinary volatile oil. In the price lists these oils
are designated as _extra strong_, _patented_, _concentrated_, _highly
concentrated oils_ or _essences_.
All the terpenes occurring in the various oils are combinations
having the formula C_{10}H_{16}, or polymeric with it, C_{15}H_{24},
C_{20}H_{32}, etc. These terpenes exhibiting certain deviations in
regard to their properties, odor, specific gravity, and boiling
points, nearly as many terpenes as there are volatile oils have been
distinguished. It is, however, very likely that these deviations
may be traced back to fortuitous circumstances, for example, to
the admixture of foreign substances occurring together with the
terpenes, and that, by a more accurate examination, the number of
terpenes entitled to be considered pure chemical combinations will be
considerably reduced. By Wallach's labors, the identity of several
terpenes formerly considered distinct, has already been established,
whilst many others have been found to possess properties in common.
According to the nature and quantity of the odoriferous substances
contained in the plants, various methods, namely, _expression_,
_distillation_, _extraction_, _maceration_, and _absorption_, are
employed for the purpose of obtaining them.
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