A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
_Expression._--This is only practicable when the substances are
especially rich in oil and of sufficient softness, as in the case with
the peel of the orange, citron, lemon, etc. In such instances the
material is simply placed in a linen cloth and subjected to a strong
pressure until it ceases to yield oil. The press may be of any size
according to the quantity to be expressed. For small quantities it
generally consists of an iron vessel, having a small opening at the
bottom so that the oil may flow out. The material is placed upon a
perforated bottom inside of the vessel and covered with a well-fitting
iron plate, that can be pressed down by means of a screw. Though the
material is fairly exhausted by such a press, for large operations it
is advisable to make use of a hydraulic press, which is constructed and
managed in exactly the same manner as those used for the expression of
fixed oils.
By expression a turbid milky fluid is obtained, which consists of
the volatile oil and aqueous substances. The latter are a solution of
various extractive substances and salts in water. This fluid, as it
runs from the press, is received in tall, narrow, glass vessels and
brought into a cool place for clarification. This frequently requires
several days, three distinct layers being generally distinguished. On
the bottom is a mucous layer consisting of cell substances carried
along by the liquid bodies. Over this is a clear fluid consisting
of a solution of extractive substances, vegetable albumen, and
salts, and upon this floats the volatile oil, being specifically the
lightest body, which, by its greater refractive power, can be clearly
distinguished from the aqueous fluid.
The oil is separated by bringing all that has been expressed into a
bottle provided near the bottom with a lateral neck closed by a cock.
After separating the oil from the aqueous fluid, the latter is allowed
to escape by opening the cock.
The oil obtained in this manner is still impure, and requires further
treatment to remove small vegetable fibres, invisible to the naked eye,
which float in them, and cause them to be somewhat opaque and slightly
opalescent. By their subsequent decomposition they would also give the
oil a disagreeable odor.
There are two methods of obtaining the oil entirely clear, viz.,
filtration and distillation. Filtration is the cheaper process, but
requires special precautions to exclude the air as much as possible to
prevent the oil from undergoing injurious changes. By arranging the
filtering apparatus so that the oil always comes in contact with only
the same quantity of air, the injurious action of the oxygen is reduced
to a minimum. It is self-evident that the apparatus should not be
placed in the sun, but in a semi-dark, cool place.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
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