A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
History
A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
Experience, however, has shown that volatile oils prepared by this
process possess a finer odor the shorter the time the flowers remain
in contact with the fat. Piver has devised an apparatus which reduces
the time of maceration to the shortest period possible. The kettle to
the left, Fig. 16, supplies the fat heated to the proper temperature,
which circulates slowly through the macerating tank, in which a
constant temperature of 149° F. is maintained by means of a steam pipe.
The macerating tank is divided into compartments, in which baskets
containing the vegetable substance to be extracted are suspended. The
basket on the left contains the substance which has passed through
all the compartments; it is from time to time removed, filled with
fresh substance, and then attached to the right, the other baskets
being moved to the next compartment to the left. In this way the fresh
substance has to traverse each compartment from right to left, while
the fat flows slowly from left to right, and saturated with the perfume
of the substance collects in the tank on the extreme right.
[Illustration: FIG. 16.]
Maceration is employed for the flowers of the orange (_citrus
aurantum_), of the mock orange (_Philadelphus coronarius_), of the
acacia (_acacia Farnesiana_), of the violet (_viola odorata_), of the
mignonette (_réséda odorata_), etc.
The process of _absorption_, or "_enfleurage_," as it is called by the
French, is chiefly made use of for procuring the odoriferous principle
of very delicate flowers, the delicious odor of which would be greatly
modified, if not entirely spoiled, by the application of heat. The
older apparatus employed for the purpose consists of a number of
shallow wooden frames of about 15×18 inches, inclosing at half their
depth a sheet of glass. The edges of the frame rise about an inch above
each surface of the glass, and, being flat, the frames stand securely
upon one another, forming often considerable stacks. These frames
are called "_chassis_," those just described being termed "_chassis
aux vitres_," or "_chassis aux pomades_," to distinguish them from a
different form, which is used where oil has to be submitted to the
process of absorption. The process in the case of pomade is as follows:
Each sheet of glass is uniformly coated with a thin layer of purified
grease, care being taken that the grease does not come in contact with
the woodwork of the frames. The flowers are then thinly sprinkled, or
rather laid, one by one, upon the surface of the fat, where they are
allowed to remain one or two days, when they are removed and replaced
by fresh ones. The operation is thus continued for twenty-five or
thirty days, until the fat is saturated with aroma. The frames charged
with fat and flowers are stacked one upon the other, forming, in fact,
a number of little rectangular chambers.
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