A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
History
A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
For _perfuming oils_ a metal sieve, Fig. 17, is substituted for the
glass plate. Upon the sieve a piece of thick cotton cloth saturated
with oil is laid, and upon this the flowers are scattered, and left
there until fresh ones have to be substituted. The operation is
repeated until the oil is sufficiently impregnated with aroma, when
the cloth is subjected to pressure and the expressed oil filtered.
[Illustration: FIG. 17.]
This process is very tedious, requiring much labor and a long time for
the impregnation of the fat or oil, but, notwithstanding its faults, it
is still pursued to a great extent, some French firms using 3000 such
frames during the season.
With the apparatus, shown in Fig. 18, the process of absorption can,
however, be conducted with very little expense of labor and time.
It has the further advantage that the flowers do not come in direct
contact with the fat, whereby a saving of the latter is effected, and
it is less liable to rancidity.
The apparatus consists of a tall wooden box provided with doors which
can be hermetically closed. In the box are placed upon brackets a
number of glass plates, _g_, so arranged one above the other that, for
instance, those with uneven numbers are on the left side, leaving an
open space to the right, while those with even numbers are arranged on
the right side with an open space to the left.
From the bottom of the box a pipe passes into a sheet-iron cylinder,
_K´_, filled loosely with flowers, and provided with lateral openings,
_O_ and _O´_. From the lid of the box _K_ ascends a pipe, _e_, which
is connected with a small ventilating apparatus kept in motion by a
clockwork and weights. This ventilator when in motion sucks a current
of air through the apparatus. The air enters the cylinder _K´_ at _O_,
and after ascending through the flowers and becoming impregnated with
the vapors of the volatile oil enters through the opening _O´_ into the
box _K_ and, in passing in the direction indicated by arrows, over the
plates coated with fat, yields its aroma to them.
[Illustration: FIG. 18.]
Another apparatus for the same purpose, devised by Piver, is shown
in Fig. 19. The fat is converted into thin macaroni-like threads
and brought upon wire gauze stretched in frames. The flowers to
be extracted are piled upon tinned metallic plates, and the trays
containing the fat and the flowers are placed in an air-tight chamber
arranged as shown in the illustration. The air in the chamber is made
to circulate to and fro by the working of a bellows with which the
apparatus is provided, whereby the fat is caused to absorb the odor of
the flowers very rapidly and is less liable to rancidity.
[Illustration: FIG. 19.]
The absorption process is employed for the flowers of the jasmine
(_jasminum oderatissimum_), the mignonnette (_réséda odorata_), the
violet (_viola tricolor_), the tuberose (_polianthes tuberosa_), etc.
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