A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
Bergamot oil may be tested as to its purity by mixing it with alcohol.
It becomes pale gray-yellow, forms a sediment which adheres firmly to
the vessel and, on shaking, floats about in the form of flakes. After
two days the sediment is inconsiderable and difficult to divide into
flakes in the clear yellow fluid by shaking. The oil is frequently
adulterated with alcohol. To detect such adulteration, Righini
recommends the following method: Mix 15 parts of the oil with a like
quantity of pure olive oil or oil of sweet almonds. If alcohol is
present, it immediately separates, like water, from the fat oil; if no
separation takes place the oil is not adulterated with alcohol. The
tannin test also gives reliable results. In storing oil of bergamot
great care must be exercised to exclude air and light, as it is one of
the most changeable oils and soon acquires an odor resembling that of
turpentine.
Large quantities of oil of bergamot are used in perfumery. It forms, so
to say, the basis for most of the finer products. In Cologne water it
forms the principal constituent in the mixture of volatile oils.
_Cajeput oil_ (_oleum cajeputi_).--This oil is obtained by distillation
from the leaves of several species of _Melaleucæ_, natural order
_Caryophyllaceæ_, indigenous to the East Indies, Banda, and Malabar.
The ordinary oil has a greenish color and possesses a strong odor
of camphor and a pungent taste. It is chiefly imported by way of
Amsterdam, where it is partially discolored by rectification, so
that two kinds, the white and green cajeput oil, are brought into
commerce. The color of the latter is generally supposed to be due to a
resinous substance containing chlorophyl, though others assert that it
originates from the copper of the distilling apparatus and the copper
flasks in which it is dispatched. The specific gravity of the oil
varies between 0.910 and 0.940, though specifically lighter and heavier
oils are said to occur.
It is claimed that an artificial cajeput oil is often prepared
from camphor and rosemary oil, the green color being obtained by
distillation with milfoil. The presence of camphor may be readily
determined by thoroughly triturating a few drops of the oil with sugar
and then dissolving in water, whereby the particles of camphor separate
in the form of white flakes upon the surface.
Cajeput oil is frequently adulterated with oil of turpentine and
rosemary oil. Such adulteration is recognized by pure cajeput oil
dissolving clear in equal parts of 90 per cent. alcohol, which is not
the case with the other two oils.
_Camomile or chamomile oil_ (_oleum anthemidis_).--Two varieties of
oil of camomile are found in commerce, one green and the other blue.
The first is derived from the flowers of the genuine or Roman camomile
(_Anthemis nobilis_) and the blue from the common variety (_Matricaria
chamomila_). The last oil is the one chiefly used in the manufacture of
perfumery and in medicine.
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