A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
_Blue camomile oil_ is generally obtained by distillation. In
distilling, metal Florentine flasks should be used, as the oil adheres
tenaciously to glass vessels and the distillate has to be treated with
ether. The pure oil has a beautiful blue color, and on heating forms
blue vapors. It has a penetrating odor which only by strong dilution
becomes similar to that of camomile. By storing in the light and the
simultaneous presence of air, the oil turns green; later on, brown, and
is finally converted into a thickly-fluid, brownish mass.
_Green camomile oil_ from the genuine or Roman camomile possesses an
agreeable odor of fresh lemons; it is more seldom used than the other.
On account of the slight yield obtained from the flowers, camomile oil
is rather expensive.
_Caraway oil_ (_oleum carui_) is obtained by distillation from the
seeds of the well-known aromatic plant _Carum carui_, or the caraway,
natural order _Umbelliferae_. In a fresh, purified state the oil is
colorless, very thinly-fluid and possesses a pungent taste. The oil
prepared from cleansed Dutch seed is best liked, while that distilled
from Norwegian or Tyrolese seed is not much in demand, its taste and
odor not being so pure on account of the many impurities mixed with
these kinds of seed.
Caraway oil consists mainly of a terpene, C_{10}H_{16}, called
_carvene_, specific gravity 0.870, and of _carvol_, specific gravity
0.960. The richer the oil in carvol, the higher its specific gravity.
Good caraway oil should have a specific gravity of 0.900 to 0.910.
The carvol being the actual bearer of the aroma, the value of the oil
exclusively depends on the content of it. In the better varieties
of oil, the content of carvol amounts to from 45 to 50 per cent.,
while poorer qualities generally contain only from 40 to 42 per cent.
The carvol and carvene are now frequently separated by fractional
distillation. The carvol, which has three times as strong an odor and
taste as the carvene, dissolves with much greater facility in alcohol.
The carvene being offered at very low prices might be suitable for
perfuming cheap soaps.
Caraway oil obtained by distillation from the plant has a less
agreeable odor than that from the seed, and possesses an acrid resinous
taste.
The purity of caraway oil is recognized by its dissolving clear in
equal parts of 90 per cent. alcohol. If such is not the case, the oil
contains either an admixture of oil of turpentine or does not possess
the full normal content of carvol. Pure caraway oil does not detonate
with iodine, which is the case with oil containing oil of turpentine.
Caraway oil is chiefly used for perfuming soap; for handkerchief
perfumes it is not suitable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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