squalor was a squalor wonderfully mixed and seasoned, and that I should
wrong the whole impression if I didn't figure it first and foremost as
that of some vast succulent cornucopia. What did the stacked boxes and
baskets of our youth represent but the boundless fruitage of that more
bucolic age of the American world, and what was after all of so strong
an assault as the rankness of such a harvest? Where is that fruitage
now, where in particular are the peaches _d'antan_? where the mounds of
Isabella grapes and Seckel pears in the sticky sweetness of which our
childhood seems to have been steeped? It was surely, save perhaps for
oranges, a more informally and familiarly fruit-eating time, and bushels
of peaches in particular, peaches big and peaches small, peaches white
and peaches yellow, played a part in life from which they have somehow
been deposed; every garden, almost every bush and the very boys' pockets
grew them; they were "cut up" and eaten with cream at every meal;
domestically "brandied" they figured, the rest of the year, scarce less
freely--if they were rather a "party dish" it was because they made the
party whenever they appeared, and when ice-cream was added, or they were
added _to_ it, they formed the highest revel we knew. Above all the
public heaps of them, the high-piled receptacles at every turn, touched
the street as with a sort of southern plenty; the note of the rejected
and scattered fragments, the memory of the slippery skins and rinds and
kernels with which the old dislocated flags were bestrown, is itself
endeared to me and contributes a further pictorial grace. We ate
everything in those days by the bushel and the barrel, as from stores
that were infinite; we handled watermelons as freely as cocoanuts, and
the amount of stomach-ache involved was negligible in the general
Eden-like consciousness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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