Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
After leaving Broadford the traveller drives along the margin of the
ribbon of salt water which flows between Skye and the Island of
Scalpa. Up this narrow sound the steamer never passes, and it is
only navigated by the lighter kinds of sailing craft. Scalpa is a
hilly island of some three or four miles in length, by one and a half
in breadth, is gray-green in colour, and as treeless as the palm of
your hand. It has been the birthplace of many soldiers. After
passing Scalpa the road ascends; and you notice as you drive along
that during the last hour or so the frequent streams have changed
colour. In the southern portion of the island they come down as if
the hills ran sherry--here they are pale as shallow sea-water. This
difference of hue arises of course from a difference of bed. About
Broadford they come down through the mossy moorland, here they run
over marble. Of marble the island is full; and it is not impossible
that the sculptors of the twentieth century will patronise the
quarries of Strath and Kyle rather than the quarries of Carrara. But
wealth is needed to lay bare these mineral treasures. The fine
qualities of Skye marble will never be obtained until they are laid
open by a golden pickaxe.
Once you have passed Scalpa you approach Lord Macdonald's deer
forest. You have turned the flank of the Cuchullins now, and are
taking them in rear, and you skirt their bases very closely too. The
road is full of wild ascents and descents, and on your left, for a
couple of miles or so, you are in continual presence of bouldered
hill-side sloping away upward to some invisible peak, overhanging
wall of wet black precipice, far-off serrated ridge that cuts the sky
like a saw. Occasionally these mountain forms open up and fall back,
and you see the sterilest valleys running no man knows whither.
Altogether the hills here have a strange weird look. Each is as
closely seamed with lines as the face of a man of a hundred, and
these myriad reticulations are picked out with a pallid gray-green,
as if through some mineral corrosion. Passing along you are
strangely impressed with the idea that some vast chemical experiment
has been going on for some thousands of years; that the region is
nature's laboratory, and that down these wrinkled hill-fronts she had
spilt her acids and undreamed-of combinations. You never think of
verdure in connexion with that net-work of gray-green, but only of
rust, or of some metallic discoloration. You cannot help fancying
that if a sheep fed on one of those hill-sides it would to a
certainty be poisoned. Altogether the sight is very grand, very
impressive, and very uncomfortable, and it is with the liveliest
satisfaction that, tearing down one of the long descents, you turn
your back on the mountain monsters, and behold in front the green
Island of Raasay, with its imposing modern mansion, basking in
sunshine. It is like passing from the world of the gnomes to the
world of men.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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