Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
[Sidenote: Lord Macdonald's forest.]
I have driven across Lord Macdonald's deer forest in sunshine and in
rain, and am constrained to confess that, under the latter
atmospherical condition, the scenery is the more imposing. Some
months ago I drove in the mail-gig from Sligachan to Broadford.
There was a high wind, the sun was bright, and consequently a great
carry and flight of sunny vapours. All at once, too, every half-hour
or so, the turbulent brightness of wind and cloud was extinguished by
fierce squalls of rain. You could see the coming rain-storm blown
out on the wind toward you like a sheet of muslin cloth. On it came
racing in its strength and darkness, the long straight watery lines
pelting on road and rock, churning in marsh and pool. Over the
unhappy mail-gig it rushed, bidding defiance to plaid or waterproof
cape, and wetting every one to the skin. The mail jogged on as best
it could through the gloom and the fury, and then the sunshine came
again making to glisten, almost too brightly for the eye, every
rain-pool on the road. In the sunny intervals there was a great race
and hurry of towered vapour, as I said; and when a shining mass smote
one of the hill-sides, or shrouded for a while one of the more
distant serrated crests, the concussion was so palpable to the eye
that the ear felt defrauded, and silence seemed unnatural. And when
the vast mass passed onward to impinge on some other mountain
barrier, it was singular to notice by what slow degrees, with what
evident reluctance the laggard skirts combed off. [Sidenote: The
meek-faced man of fifty.] All these effects of rain and windy vapour
I remember vividly, and I suppose that the vividness was partly due
to the lamentable condition of a fellow-traveller. He was a
meek-faced man of fifty. He was dressed in sables, his
swallow-tailed coat was thread-bare, and withal seemed made for a
smaller man. There was an uncomfortable space between the wrists of
his coat and his black-thread gloves. He wore a hat, and against the
elements had neither the protection of plaid nor umbrella. No one
knew him, to no one did he explain his business. To my own notion he
was bound for a funeral at some place beyond Portree. He was not a
clergyman--he might have been a schoolmaster who had become
green-moulded in some out-of-the-way locality. Of course one or two
of the rainy squalls settled the meek-faced man in the thread-bare
sables. Emerging from one of these he resembled a draggled rook, and
the rain was pouring from the brim of his pulpy hat as it might from
the eaves of a cottage. A passenger handed him his spirit-flask, the
meek-faced man took a hearty pull, and returning it, said
plaintively, "I'm but poorly clad, sir, for this God-confounded
climate." I think often of the utterance of the poor fellow: it was
the only thing he said all the way; and when I think of it, I see
again the rain blown out towards me on the wind like a waving sheet
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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