Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
of muslin cloth, and the rush, the concussion, the upbreak, and the
slow reluctant trailing off from the hill-side of the sunny cloud.
The poor man's plaintive tone is the anchor which holds these things
in my memory.
The forest is of course treeless. Nor are deer seen there
frequently. Although I have crossed it frequently, only once did I
get a sight of antlers. Carefully I crept up, sheltering myself
behind a rocky haunch of the hill to where the herd were lying, and
then rushed out upon them with a halloo. In an instant they were on
their feet, and away went the beautiful creatures, doe and fawn, a
stag with branchy head leading. They dashed across a torrent,
crowned an eminence one by one and disappeared. Such a sight is
witnessed but seldom; and the traveller passing through the brown
desolation sees usually no sign of life. In Lord Macdonald's deer
forest neither trees nor deer are visible.
When once you get quit of the forest you come on a shooting-box,
perched on the sea-shore; then you pass the little village of
Sconser; and, turning the sharp flank of a hill, drive along Loch
Sligachan to Sligachan Inn, about a couple of miles distant. This
inn is a famous halting-place for tourists. There are good fishing
streams about, I am given to understand, and through Glen Sligachan
you can find your way to Camasunary, and take the boat from thence to
Loch Coruisk, as we did. It was down this glen that the messenger
was to have brought the tobacco to our peculiar friend. If you go
you may perhaps find his skeleton scientifically articulated by the
carrion crow and the raven. From the inn door the ridges of the
Cuchullins are seen wildly invading the sky, and in closer proximity
there are other hills which cannot be called beautiful. Monstrous,
abnormal, chaotic, they resemble the other hills on the earth's
surface, as Hindoo deities resemble human beings. The mountain,
whose sharp flank you turned after you passed Sconser, can be
inspected leisurely now, and is to my mind supremely ugly. In summer
it is red as copper, with great ragged patches of verdure upon it,
which look by all the world as if the coppery mass had _rusted_
green. On these green patches cattle feed from March to October.
You bait at Sligachan,--can dine on trout which a couple of hours
before were darting hither and thither in the stream, if you
like,--and then drive leisurely along to Portree while the setting
sun is dressing the wilderness in gold and rose. And all the way the
Cuchullins follow you; the wild irregular outline, which no
familiarity can stale, haunts you at Portree, as it does in nearly
every quarter of Skye.
[Sidenote: Portree.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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