Brazil -- Description and travel; São Paulo (Brazil : State)
The second Sunday at sea is one to be remembered. It is spent in
mid ocean, in the tropics. In the companionway is posted a notice
of service in the great dining-saloon at 10.30 A. M. At ten you are
sitting on deck, in a fresh white dress, waiting. Soon after the crew
begins to gather, stewards, cooks, quartermasters, every one who can
be spared from duty. They come in neat uniform, white trousers, navy
blue jackets and caps with the Royal Mail device embroidered in color.
The line of men, over a hundred, stretches the length of the deck. The
captain and purser, followed by all the officers walk the length of
the line for roll-call and review. The officers lead the way to the
dining-saloon followed by the crew, then by the passengers. The stately
service of the Church of England is read by the captain; the psalms are
all sung, led by an accomplished English lady at the organ.[1] How
many fine voices there are among those sailors! It is an impressive
service, and you are glad that it is required by law, and that all
sorts and conditions of men join in it.
[1] As the hymns and chants are those of the English Church an English
musician is naturally chosen, and there are always those among the
English passengers who are fully competent to render this service.
After this luncheon, and a deck unusually full of novel readers, for
some of the gentlemen do not play “poker” in the smoking-room Sundays.
I remember we saw during that Sunday afternoon two men whom we had not
seen before. They were reading Bibles. A notice of a Gospel service
at 8 P. M. by the forward hatch was posted. We went; so did all the
passengers. The two new men were the evangelists. They gave out a
Gospel hymn and started it, but no one seemed to know it or joined
in the singing. They read the Scripture and exhorted, expressing
themselves strongly on unrighteousness, betting and the use of tobacco,
while the listeners occasionally took their cigarettes out of their
mouths long enough to smile derisively. We felt pained at the apparent
failure and asked the captain for the cause. “Well,” said he, “these
men are in the world but not of it. They have shut themselves away from
the passengers, the sports; shown no friendliness to the sailors. My
men are very obliging and often sing well when these missionaries come
along, but this sort offends them, makes them ugly.” We saw no more of
the men until they landed four days later.
PERNAMBUCO.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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