A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
Of course, this decided the matter, and when I launched the Rob Roy from
the pebbly shore in a fine foggy morning, and in full view of the
inhabitants of the region (eight in number at last census), we had a
most pleasant paddle for several miles.
At a distance the boat was invisible being so low in the water, and they
said that "only a man was seen, whirling a paddle about his head."
There is nothing interesting about this lake, except that it is 3,000
feet above the sea and very lonely, in the middle of the Black Forest.
Certainly no English boat has been there before, and probably no other
will visit the deserted water.
After this, the Rob Roy is carted again still further into the forests.
Lumbering vehicles meet us, all carrying wood. Some have joined three
carts together, and have eight horses. Others have a bullock or two
besides, and all the men are intelligent enough, for they stop and
stare, and my driver deigns to tell them, in a patois wholly beyond me,
as to what a strange fare he has got with a boat and no other luggage.
However, they invariably conclude that the canoe is being carried about
for sale, and it could have been well sold frequently already.
About mid-day my sage driver began to mutter something at intervals, but
I could only make out from his gestures and glances that it had to do
with a storm overhead. The mixture of English, French, and German on the
borders of the Rhine accustoms one to hear odd words. "Shall have you
pottyto?" says a waiter, and he is asking if you will have potatoes.
Another hands you a dish, saying, it is "sweetbone," and you must know
it is "sweetbread."
Yes, the storm came, and as it seldom does come except in such places. I
once heard a thunder peal while standing on the crater of Mount
Vesuvius, and I have seen the bright lightning, in cold and grand
beauty, playing on the Falls of Niagara in a sombre night, but the
vividness of the flashes to-day in the Black Forest, and the crashing,
rolling, and booming of the terrible and majestic battery of heaven was
astounding. Once a bolt fell so near and with such a blaze that the
horse albeit tired enough started off down a hill and made me quite
nervous lest he should overturn the cart and injure my precious boat,
which naturally was more and more dear to me as it was longer my sole
companion.
As we toiled up the Rothenhaus Pass, down came the rain, whistling and
rushing through the cold, dark forests of larch, and blackening the top
of great Feldberg, the highest mountain here, and then pouring heavy and
fast on the cart and horse, the man, the canoe, and myself. This was the
last rain my boat got in the tour. All other days I spent in her were
perfectly dry.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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