A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
People stared out of their windows to see a cart and a boat in this
heavy shower--what! a boat, up here in the hills? Where can it be going,
and whose is it? Then they ran out to us, and forced the driver to
harangue, and he tried to satisfy their curiosity, but his explanation
never seemed to be quite exhaustive, for they turned homeward shaking
their heads and looking grave, even though I nodded and laughed at them
through the bars of the cart, lifting up my head among the wet straw.
The weather dried up its tears at last, and the sun glittered on the
road, still sparkling with its rivulets of rain, but the boat was soon
dried by a sponge, while a smart walk warmed its well-soaked captain.
The horse too had got into a cheerful vein and actually trotted with
excitement, for now it was down hill, and bright sun--a welcome change
in ten minutes from our labouring up a steep forest road in a
thunder-storm.
The most rigid teetotaller (I am only a temperance man) would probably
allow that just a very small glass of kirchwasser might be prescribed at
this moment with advantage, and as there was no "faculty" there but
myself, I administered the dose medicinally to the driver and to his
employer, and gave a bran-mash and a rub down to the horse, which made
all three of us better satisfied with ourselves and each other, and so
we jogged on again.
By dusk I marched into Donaueschingen, and on crossing the little
bridge, saw at once I could begin the Danube from its very source, for
there was at least three inches of water in the middle of the stream.
In five minutes a crowd assembled round the boat, even before it could
be loosened from the cart.[VI.]
[VI.] After trying various modes of securing the canoe in a
springless cart for long journeys on rough and hilly roads, I am
convinced that the best way is to fasten two ropes across the top of a
long cart and let the boat lie on these, which will bear it like springs
and so modify the jolts. The painter is then made fast fore and aft, so
as to keep the boat from moving back and forward. All plans for using
trusses of straw, &c., fail after a few miles of rolling gravel and
coarse ruts.
The ordinary idlers came first, then the more shy townspeople, and then
a number of strange folk, whose exact position I could not make out,
until it was explained that the great singing meeting for that part of
Germany was to be held next day in the town, and so there were 600
visitors, all men of some means and intelligence, who were collected
from a wide country round about.
The town was in gala for this meeting of song. The inns were full, but
still the good landlord of the "Poste" by the bridge gave me an
excellent room, and the canoe was duly borne aloft in procession to the
coachhouse.
What a din these tenors and basses did make at the table d'hôte!
Everything about the boat had to be told a dozen times over to them,
while my driver had a separate lecture-room on the subject below.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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