CHAPTER XIII. Paying for supplies—Land and teak-forests belong to chiefs—Land rent—Light taxation—Leave Muang Doo—Upper Meh Hkuang—Ascend a plateau—A surprise—Luong Hkort—The Meh Hkort—Pass between the drainage of the Meh Ping and Meh Kong—Precaution against demons—Shans will not travel alone—A scare for tigers—Head-dressing and tattooing of Zimmé Shans—Charms let in the flesh—A quiet race—Villagers responsible for loss and crime in neighbourhood—Must not leave village without permission—Surveying under difficulties—The little elephant’s fun—The Meh Wung and Meh Ping—A vast plain depopulated—Timidity of elephants—Residence for demons—Reach Viang Pa Pow, 133 CHAPTER XIV. A Chinese fortification—Chinese army destroyed by famine—Viang Pa Pow—Kiang Tung Lawas—Witch villages—An intelligent prince—Best direction for railway—Purchase an ox for food—An ancient lake—Leave Pa Pow—Upper gorge of the Meh Low—Kiang Tung Lawas a Jung tribe, and distinct from Bau Lawas—Burmese Shans—Cattle with nose-bags and masks—Effect of soil on foliage—Surprises in the jungle—Temple at Bau Meh Pik—Offerings to deceased ancestors—The valley of the Meh Sooay a game-preserve—Indications of gold—Road to Viang Pow—Lower gorge of the Meh Low—Portow, the little elephant’s playmate—Loi Kook—Loi Chang Shans returning from frontier duty—Unwarrantable action of Chinese general—Kiang Hung Shans Burmese subjects in 1886—Removal of capital—Kiang Hung annexed by British in 1888—Shans dread entering deserted temples—Deceased monks classed as demons—Worshipping deceased monks—Suicide of a princess and two of her maids—Soused by an elephant—Courtesy of the Chow Hona of Kiang Hai—An immense plain, 142 CHAPTER XV. Princes in their best clothes—A procession—Reach Kiang Hai—Dilapidated houses—The Meh Khoke—Ngios from Moné—Kiang Hai—Former Siamese capital—Early history of Siam—Visit he chief—Population—Ruined cities—Arrangement between British Shans and Siamese Shans—Recent encroachment of Siamese—Name entered as benefactor in royal annals—Visit from La-hu—Oval faces—known by their petticoats—Monosyllabic languages difficult to translate—La-hu a Lolo tribe—Comparison of vocabularies, 154 CHAPTER XVI.