A state visit from chief—Insignia of office—Plentiful rainfall—Rain-clouds from the north—Only silver coins—Indian money—Frontier dues—Ferry toll—Fishing as a livelihood—Salt and cowries as small change—Tricks with the currency in Siam—Robbing the poor—A footprint of Buddh—A monk spoilt by the ladies—Ruined temples strewn with bronze images—Carl Bock’s loot—The emerald Buddh—A tattooed Laos Shan—Madras boys taken for ogres—Marching in single file—Scene at the ford—Cheap provisions—Chinese caravans—Cost of carriage—Opinion of Dr Cheek as to the prospects for a Burmah-China railway—Population of Siamese Shan States—Protection of caravan—Birds and monkeys dying of grief—Second visit from the La-hu—Marriage customs—Divorce—Gold in the Kiang Tung Lawa country—Fishing by torchlight, 162 CHAPTER XVII. Leave Kiang Hai—A hot spring—Elephants without tusks—Elephant-driving—Danger when driver is careless—A large rice-plain—Bargaining with the abbot at Muang Doo—Bloodthirsty flies—Elephants as tool-users—Inhospitable ancestral spirits—Game plentiful—Utterances of tigers—A magnificent forest—A stink-wood—Water-parting between the Kiang Hai and Kiang Hsen plains—Brave butterflies—A field for an entomologist—Psyche in Burmah—A Central Asian belief—Three sacred hills—Buddha and Confucius—Legend of Loi Htong—Valley of the Meh Chan—Pass to Muang Fang—Kiang Hsen plain—Siamese aggression—Deserted cities of Manola—Tigers—Attack on Kiang Hsen in 1794—Wild animals—Legend of Muang Nŏng—Thunderstorm—Flooded country—Leaning pagoda—Reach Kiang Hsen, 177 CHAPTER XVIII. The Meh Kong at Kiang Hsen—Ringworm—Extensive ruins—Description of city—Importance of situation for trade—Chinese settlers from Ssuchuan, Kweichau, and Yunnan—Projected railway—Surveys being made by King of Siam—Excursions from Kiang Hsen—Teak-forests—Robbing an image—Legend of Kiang Mee-ang—Ancient cities—Comparison between ancient Britons and Shans—Ancient principality of Tsen—Kiang Hung—Destruction of Kiang Hsen—Carried away captives—Treachery in war—Population of Zimmé chiefly slaves—Kiang Hsen reoccupied in 1881—Resettling it—Action of King of Siam—Friendly footing of missionaries—View across the Kiang Hsen plain—Flooded country—Leave for Kiang Hai—A white elephant—Branches as sunshades—Elephant-flies—Emigrants from Lapoon—Beautiful scenery—Mr Archer’s description of traffic along the route, 190 CHAPTER XIX.